Topic: How To Bleed Your Brakes The Baer Way

[bluedevil]

It's a common misconception that more pressure is better when bleeding a brake system. Well nothing could be further from the truth. According to Baer Brakes, a gentle stroke on the pedal and firm but light pressure works every time. The key to a successful bleed job is to firmly move the fluid through the system while displacing the trapped air in the brake system. 

Baer has been engineering, manufacturing, and assembling brake systems that deliver ultimate performance, quality and value to your vehicle since 1986. These guys are the experts when it comes to brakes. Let’s see how Baer thinks brakes should be bled.

Anytime you replace your brake calipers, brake lines or open the brake system you shoud bleed your brake system. This will ensure the brakes work properly and prevent any sort of problem. If you do not bleed the system correctly it may be a safety issue.

Before we get started, you'll need the essentials: the right sized wrenches, and a clear plastic bleed hose, these are the essentials. Baer also recommends using a good quality, non-silicone brake fluid as well. And, last but not least, you will need to have a friend help out. This is a two person job.

How it’s done:

1-Slowly pour your brake fluid into the master cylinder. Pouring the fluid in slowly helps keep air bubbles out of the system.

2-Next, move the caliper farthest from the master cylinder and attach the clear plastic bleed hose to the bleeder and open the bleeder. VERY SLOWLY stroke the brake pedal by hand or foot until brake fluid comes out. Then, close the bleeder.

3-The Actual Bleeding Process

4-Have your partner very slowly apply pressure to the pedal one time until resistance is encountered. When you reach this point hold the pedal.

5-Open the bleeder, letting the pedal go to the floor or until it loses pressure.

6-Repeat this process until all air is purged from the system.

7-Be sure to keep the master cylinder filled. Constantly check the fluid in the master cylinder every bleeding process so it does not run dry.

8-Before moving onto the next caliper, take a small block of wood or a rubber mallet to carefully tap the calipers to dislodge any air bubbles that may be trapped.

9-Complete by finishing off with one final bleed.

10-Move on to the next caliper and repeat the process.
   
Before you reinstall your wheels, Baer recommends that you clean all surfaces with brake cleaner. Wipe all your parts including calipers, rotors, fittings, and hose joints to make sure they are dry and free from dirt and oils.

[Z66 Butch]

It's a common misconception that more pressure is better when bleeding a brake system. Well nothing could be further from the truth. According to Baer Brakes, a gentle stroke on the pedal and firm but light pressure works every time. The key to a successful bleed job is to firmly move the fluid through the system while displacing the trapped air in the brake system. 

Baer has been engineering, manufacturing, and assembling brake systems that deliver ultimate performance, quality and value to your vehicle since 1986. These guys are the experts when it comes to brakes. Let’s see how Baer thinks brakes should be bled.

Anytime you replace your brake calipers, brake lines or open the brake system you shoud bleed your brake system. This will ensure the brakes work properly and prevent any sort of problem. If you do not bleed the system correctly it may be a safety issue.

Before we get started, you'll need the essentials: the right sized wrenches, and a clear plastic bleed hose, these are the essentials. Baer also recommends using a good quality, non-silicone brake fluid as well. And, last but not least, you will need to have a friend help out. This is a two person job.

How it’s done:

1-Slowly pour your brake fluid into the master cylinder. Pouring the fluid in slowly helps keep air bubbles out of the system.

2-Next, move the caliper farthest from the master cylinder and attach the clear plastic bleed hose to the bleeder and open the bleeder. VERY SLOWLY stroke the brake pedal by hand or foot until brake fluid comes out. Then, close the bleeder.

3-The Actual Bleeding Process

4-Have your partner very slowly apply pressure to the pedal one time until resistance is encountered. When you reach this point hold the pedal.

5-Open the bleeder, letting the pedal go to the floor or until it loses pressure.

6-Repeat this process until all air is purged from the system.

7-Be sure to keep the master cylinder filled. Constantly check the fluid in the master cylinder every bleeding process so it does not run dry.

8-Before moving onto the next caliper, take a small block of wood or a rubber mallet to carefully tap the calipers to dislodge any air bubbles that may be trapped.

9-Complete by finishing off with one final bleed.

10-Move on to the next caliper and repeat the process.
   
Before you reinstall your wheels, Baer recommends that you clean all surfaces with brake cleaner. Wipe all your parts including calipers, rotors, fittings, and hose joints to make sure they are dry and free from dirt and oils.

Good information and I am afraid that I will need it soon. My rear brakes went out whie in Tennessee this past spring. The shop that I took it to wanted WAY to many $$ and said that I needed BOTH rear rotors replaced along with the pads. They wanted something like $600 to do the job....NOT FROM ME!

We were in the process of trying to do just the pads ourselves when my son in law calls and says he has a mechanic friend that works at the dealership, he was not busy and could do them "under the table" for $40. He got the job. But now I have warped rotors, they are getting bad and I am looking for some new ones, I think these would look good with my NS Racing wheels, what do you think? It will be spring AT LEAST before I can get them on..........Yea I know this is not the correct rotor for my Avalanche but they do make them!

Butch

[bluedevil]

Butch,i think you can do it yourself or have somebody do it for ya. And yeah,those are nice looking rotors.

Are you upgrading to 14"?

[Z66 Butch]

Butch,i think you can do it yourself or have somebody do it for ya. And yeah,those are nice looking rotors.

Are you upgrading to 14"?

I should but I doubt that I will have the money to do that. I don't know but am guessing that it cost a lot more for that upgrade over stock size?

Butch

[bluedevil]

14" will cost more and with a little search the're  some rotors you can still use the factory brake pads without upgrading them.


Check these out. These are factory size.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SR-Brake-Rotors-Chevy-Avalanche-Silverado-Tahoe-F-R_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33564QQihZ017QQitemZ270080325998QQrdZ1

[bluedevil]

These are direct replacement. Both slotted/drilled

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Chevy-Avalanche-Front-Rear-Drill-Slot-Rotors-Pads_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33564QQihZ019QQitemZ290073224440QQrdZ1

[Z66 Butch]

Yea, I have been looking on eBay, just not sure if I will go that way. I am sure there are some good ones on there but I bet there are some that are not so good. I have heard that drilled is not the way to go because you run the risk of getting stress cracks at the drill points, any thoughts?

Butch

[bluedevil]

Yea, I have been looking on eBay, just not sure if I will go that way. I am sure there are some good ones on there but I bet there are some that are not so good. I have heard that drilled is not the way to go because you run the risk of getting stress cracks at the drill points, any thoughts?

Butch

May be.   But i would think that if they indeed crack or break why its being sold?

Personally i never heard anything bad about that.

[Z66 Butch]

Yea, I have been looking on eBay, just not sure if I will go that way. I am sure there are some good ones on there but I bet there are some that are not so good. I have heard that drilled is not the way to go because you run the risk of getting stress cracks at the drill points, any thoughts?

Butch

May be.   But i would think that if they indeed crack or break why its being sold?

Personally i never heard anything bad about that.

Here is a story, I know that you can not believe everything that you read online............but they do have pictures.

http://www.superchargersonline.com/content.asp?ID=98

[bluedevil]

Wow! That is a good article.

But our Av's being compared to F1's and Nascar cars?