Topic: Dual battery mod!

[Fowlhunter]

Has anyone done the dual battery mod?  Just curious, I was thinking about doing this sometime in the future and wondered if anyone had any pics or words of advice?  Not sure why I need this mod but thought it would be cool to have an extra battery. 

[oHIobellboy]

Has anyone done the dual battery mod?  Just curious, I was thinking about doing this sometime in the future and wondered if anyone had any pics or words of advice?  Not sure why I need this mod but thought it would be cool to have an extra battery. 

I know Dman has it on his....havn't seen him post in a while.


Thinking of adding more lights?

[Fowlhunter]

OK, cool! I'll do some more searching.

Yes, maybe some day.    

[Fowlhunter]

OK, here is what I found.  I would guess these fit 02-06 but I'm not sure, still putting everything together but see below.  These are P/N's from the dealer.

Passenger side battery tray, GM #15246518 (Old #15705102)
Screw, GM #11509853
Clamp V, GM #14005061 (Old #356668)

[oHIobellboy]

What kind of wiring are you planning on using? Painless has a pretty easy setup. I'll hunt down a link after dinner.

[Fowlhunter]

What kind of wiring are you planning on using? Painless has a pretty easy setup. I'll hunt down a link after dinner.

I'm looking at the Stinger 1/0 gauge wire.  I looked at the Painless kit at Summit, when I'm ready I'll probably get it from them.  I think they wanted $129 for the kit.  I could get the waterproof kit for $199 but I'm not sure I need/want that one?

[oHIobellboy]

OK, here is what I found.  I would guess these fit 02-06 but I'm not sure, still putting everything together but see below.  These are P/N's from the dealer.

Passenger side battery tray, GM #15246518 (Old #15705102)
Screw, GM #11509853
Clamp V, GM #14005061 (Old #356668)

Stopping by the local dealer today to order/pick up these parts. Gonna be doing mine after I saw how Didit did it to his.

[Fowlhunter]

Stopping by the local dealer today to order/pick up these parts. Gonna be doing mine after I saw how Didit did it to his.

Very nice man!!  Since I haven't done much except mount the second battery tray I can't wait to see what you do!

[oHIobellboy]

$40 for parts. Not bad.

[Fowlhunter]

$40 for parts. Not bad.

No, not at all but you still need all the cable and the Painless kit.  You will need to remove the inner fender bracket prior to installing the second battery tray.

[oHIobellboy]

No, not at all but you still need all the cable and the Painless kit.  You will need to remove the inner fender bracket prior to installing the second battery tray.

I'm going to the stereo shop around the corner for the cables so they're the perfect length.  Also going the cheap route instead of the Painless isolator I'll get one like Didits from Harbor Freight. Flip the key lock to charge that battery every few weeks.

[MyBigToy]

I'm going to the stereo shop around the corner for the cables so they're the perfect length.  Also going the cheap route instead of the Painless isolator I'll get one like Didits from Harbor Freight. Flip the key lock to charge that battery every few weeks.

I've got that battery cutoff switch on my tractor. I had a slow discharge and got tired of always having a dead battery when I tried to start it. It works great.

[oHIobellboy]

I've got that battery cutoff switch on my tractor. I had a slow discharge and got tired of always having a dead battery when I tried to start it. It works great.

I'm actually thinking of keeping both batteries charging all the time, running all my mods to the 2nd battery and disconnecting it whenever I'm parked with the lights going. That will drain the backup and not both of them. Start the truck, flip the switch and charge the "mod battery" back up.

[Fowlhunter]

I'm going to the stereo shop around the corner for the cables so they're the perfect length.  Also going the cheap route instead of the Painless isolator I'll get one like Didits from Harbor Freight. Flip the key lock to charge that battery every few weeks.

Do you have any info on the isolator from Harbor Freight?

[oHIobellboy]

Do you have any info on the isolator from Harbor Freight?

I think it was about $5 IIRC. Maybe Didit will chime in on it.

[Fowlhunter]

I think it was about $5 IIRC. Maybe Didit will chime in on it.

OK, I'm going to ask a dumb question.  What is IIRC?

Fowlhunter  Any Smart 

[Main One]

OK, I'm going to ask a dumb question.  What is IIRC?

Fowlhunter  Any Smart 

If I remember correctly, it means If I Remember Correctly.

[Fowlhunter]

If I remember correctly, it means If I Remember Correctly.

Very nice, Thanks Greg!

[HenryJ]

My battery tray finally arrived. Long story, but it was gathered from another dealer as the one I ordered never showed. Bob really did me a favor getting it in time for the Xmas break.



The second battery arrived today and I dropped it into place. I wired it to charge from an isolator-



...and added my surplus Battery Brain as the method of combining them.



I can manually combine them under the hood , or use the remotes. The way it is set up this battery charges when the truck is running. It remains full and fresh. When I need extra reserve I combine them and "jump start" myself. Fairly simple right now. We will see what the future brings.

[Main One]

The mods keep coming!!!

[toofast4uu]

Theres a pretty good write up for this on the Cadillac EXT forum...

[oHIobellboy]

Just waiting on the weather to break so I can finish mine. I'm rewiring all my light mods and train horns to two junction blocks off of the second battery. I figure it'll be a two day event so I'll need it to be nice out so I can ride the bike if I have to go somewhere.

[HenryJ]

...and added my surplus Battery Brain as the method of combining them.

Took a step backward today. The battery combiner situation had been bugging me. The Battery Brain had no way to tell me when the batteries were indeed combined. Remotes are cool and all...but did I really need more of them? The one time I did need it I went under the hood and switched it manually. I had neglected to add a wire that allowed that to work when it sensed low voltage, so I ended up using jumper cables. I did fix that problem, but neglected to turn the manual override off 

KISS.

I replaced the Battery Brain with a $14.99 Dorman battery disconnect switch from Oreiley's Auto parts.



Pull the key and put it in a hole behind the battery. When I need them combined, put it in and turn the key. I know they are combined. No remotes. simple.

[MonstaMonsta]

Just waiting on the weather to break so I can finish mine. I'm rewiring all my light mods and train horns to two junction blocks off of the second battery. I figure it'll be a two day event so I'll need it to be nice out so I can ride the bike if I have to go somewhere.

I'd love to see pictures of that when your done OBB!

[oHIobellboy]

I'd love to see pictures of that when your done OBB!

ummm,,,,,   Well, the 2nd battery is in anyway.  I used a battery isolator switch I picked up at Harbor Freight for $10. I'll see if I can dig up a pix.

[project black out]

I still haven't done this lol I got the second battery tray, the isolator and the power cables but I still haven't gotten around to installing it lol

SENT FROM MY EVO 4G

[MonstaMonsta]

I still haven't done this lol I got the second battery tray, the isolator and the power cables but I still haven't gotten around to installing it lol

SENT FROM MY EVO 4G

Yeah... I've only gotten around to putting the tray in. The isloater and cables are enjoying the warmth of the house right now.

[oHIobellboy]

Yeah... I've only gotten around to putting the tray in. The isloater and cables are enjoying the warmth of the house right now.

Dude, you live in the middle east. You mean it gets cold there??? 

[Main One]

I'm collecting parts to do this too.  Got the tray, hold-down and bolt, sitting in the garage.  I've also got a Stinger 200A battery isolator sitting in the garage.  Since I plan on running an Optima (which is for now operating as the only battery in the red AV) as a second battery, I didn't want the batteries connected when the ignition was off.  With the Stinger, the batteries should be in parallel when the ignition is on, and separated when the ignition is off.

[MonstaMonsta]

Dude, you live in the middle east. You mean it gets cold there??? 

It gets as low as 50!  So Im spoiled with warm weather...  You got me  hahaha

I'm collecting parts to do this too.  Got the tray, hold-down and bolt, sitting in the garage.  I've also got a Stinger 200A battery isolator sitting in the garage.  Since I plan on running an Optima (which is for now operating as the only battery in the red AV) as a second battery, I didn't want the batteries connected when the ignition was off.  With the Stinger, the batteries should be in parallel when the ignition is on, and separated when the ignition is off.

Alrightttt Main One!  I purchased a 80A battery isolater from stinger as well and was curious as to whether that'll be strong enough?  How do you decide upon the correct Amperage Isolater you need?  Do you need anything other than an Isolater?  I hear talk of a "Combiner"?  I'd like to just wire everything up so that the main battery is untouched when running accessories and then after start up they both charge. 

I'm buying another ACDelco so they're the same battery. 

[Main One]

It gets as low as 50!  So Im spoiled with warm weather...  You got me  hahaha

Alrightttt Main One!  I purchased a 80A battery isolater from stinger as well and was curious as to whether that'll be strong enough?  How do you decide upon the correct Amperage Isolater you need?  Do you need anything other than an Isolater?  I hear talk of a "Combiner"?  I'd like to just wire everything up so that the main battery is untouched when running accessories and then after start up they both charge. 

I'm buying another ACDelco so they're the same battery.

I'm not an expert in doing this mod, but with a degree in electrical engineering I'm probably smart enough to be dangerous.

From what I've read, you need to size the isolator to at least the amperage of your alternator in the event that it is charging your second battery at near the alternator's full output, and/or your second battery is putting out power equivalent to what the alternator could be doing by itself.

If I was doing a manual switch, as a few have described in this thread, I'd use similar batteries.  Since these isolators are only going to be combining the batteries during startup and/or while the vehicle is running, there shouldn't be a case where due to differences in battery technology that one battery will be draining the other.

For what it's worth, (and those familiar with my AV fleet) I plan on using the dual battery setup in the yellow AV during the winter so that I can use a power inverter to power my oil pan heater for a while for startup in cold weather away from home and an AC outlet (such as the airport) to supply hot oil to the Vortech supercharger, which according to Vortech shouldn't be started at below 25 degrees F.  During the rest of the year, put it in the red AV such that my son can enjoy the sound system in that AV while parked and not need to get jumped after 15 minutes.  In each case I think a deep-cycle battery is needed.

[MonstaMonsta]

ummm,,,,,   Well, the 2nd battery is in anyway.  I used a battery isolator switch I picked up at Harbor Freight for $10. I'll see if I can dig up a pix.

OBB what was the AMP rating on that Isolater you picked up?

[oHIobellboy]

OBB what was the AMP rating on that Isolater you picked up?

100 amp

Sent by my Atrix 4G

[MonstaMonsta]

Alright I've put the wiring in and the isolater on the front Battery tray next to the passenger's side.  I will take pictures and post them up when its light out.  Just had a question I wanted to get opinions on,

Where would the best place be to ground the second battery? Should I wire it to the negative post of the Main battery on the driver's side or should I just ground it on the chasis?

[MonstaMonsta]

...Also shouldnt there be a brace in place of the old factory brace that we can install above the battery? 

[oHIobellboy]

...Also shouldnt there be a brace in place of the old factory brace that we can install above the battery?

I grounded my second battery right at the fire wall IIRC. The brace is not needed because the new tray acts like a brace now.

Sent by my Atrix 4G

[MonstaMonsta]

And lastly...  the "true Ignition".  Where did you tie yours in? 

[oHIobellboy]

And lastly...  the "true Ignition".  Where did you tie yours in? 

That red junction box where the main battery meets up with the alternator feed wire. I did  upgrade my alternator wire to 4ga also but I had done that when I upgraded the alt a while back.

[MonstaMonsta]

That red junction box where the main battery meets up with the alternator feed wire. I did  upgrade my alternator wire to 4ga also but I had done that when I upgraded the alt a while back.

That doesnt keep the the Isolater "on" all the time ?  The small wire that is supposed to be connected to the "true ignition" source from the Isolater to the red junction box?

[oHIobellboy]

That doesnt keep the the Isolater "on" all the time ?  The small wire that is supposed to be connected to the "true ignition" source from the Isolater to the red junction box?

I forgot you have that isolator.

[MonstaMonsta]

Okay Done!  Here are some quick pictures.

I still need some wiring loom to cover these red cables..  and I need to switch the fuse I tapped for the Isolater that i tapped in the engine compartment fuse box.  The one I tapped now is labeled ignition? I think and it activates the isolater when the key is in the on position (not a true ignition source)  its a 10 amp...  i'll take a picture of that too.  I wired the 80 Amp Stinger Isolater with 4 guage fused with a 60 amp fuse and all seems good 

I keep checking the fuse thinking it will go... I need to get a 80 AMP AGU fuse, yes only 80 in order to protect the isolator.  If the fuse blows then I need to get a bigger isolater and fuse.  SO far so good though.

Instead moving everything to my second battery I decided to leave it without anything connected to it whatsoever.  its purely an "emergency start option.  This way if a have a short somewhere or if theres a wire grounded somewhere and I end up slowly draining the battery due to a poor instal of some new accessory I'll always have the "backup battery" completely isolated to start the truck. 

I feel relieved with this done.  I HATE that ticking noise when you try to start you're car and realize your battery is dead...  Its the worst feeling ever... well... loosing third gear is worse but... at least you can still drive with out having to worry about jump your truck if you turn it off.

[MonstaMonsta]

Now I want electric fans !!!!  Just need those part numbers from a 2005.  I want it to look Factory

[oHIobellboy]

Now I want electric fans !!!!  Just need those part numbers from a 2005.  I want it to look Factory

If I had to do it all over again, I'd do the Flex-a-Lite route with the programmable controllers and say hell with the factory look.

Sent by my Atrix 4G

[MonstaMonsta]

Apologies in advance for Jacking this thread

 

But you'd do it for the "programmable controllers" ?