Topic: Any insight on dynatech long tubes?

[USMC0311]

Might have a possible line on some Dynatech Long tubes, and a high flow catted x-pipe. Haven't heard much about dynatech, so figured I would ask if anyone had any insight. Figure between everything else, and the headers and high flow cats I would get a custom tune from Nelson, or blackbear and call it a day for now! Any input would be appriciated!

[MyBigToy]

They're a quality and expensive product. I had them on my Vette. They are stainless and have hi-flow cats; my personal recommendation is to never buy anything except stainless or stainless and ceramic coated headers. In my experience mild steel rusts through from the inside in about 5 years on a daily driver.

You will lose some bottom end with long tubes vs. short tubes but that's made up in the mid range and especially on the top end. A tune should help some with the bottom end loss but you will not completely regain all lost. If you don't have one, get a cold air induction to help with airflow in - the same as the header will drastically help your airflow out. Buy all the mods you plan to do before you get the tune and inform the tuner of EVERYTHING you have done. Since you don't have a Predator tuner I'd recommend you pull the pcm and send it to the tuner; you avoid throwing a crank sensor code if you do it that way. That's what will happen if you let the tuner program another pcm and then you ship them your original to replace the one they provide you.

You should ask the tuner to turn off the OBDII codes for the rear O2 sensors as you will most likely get codes for them. I got the codes on the Vette but turned them off with a Predator programmer. The codes are thrown because the O2 sensors are further back than the stock location on long tubes. They are cooler for that reason and that causes them to read that the cats are not working efficiently - too much difference between the front O2 sensor reading and the rear.

Just a suggestion - you could go ahead and buy the headers and hold off on the pcm programming until after Bratfest. Main One will be there; he has installed a cam and that's something you could do that would be a cheaper alternative to a supercharger. That would also make up the loss on the bottom end with the correct cam selection. You could select the correct cam, install it, and then send the pcm in for tuning.

[USMC0311]

They're a quality and expensive product. I had them on my Vette. They are stainless and have hi-flow cats; my personal recommendation is to never buy anything except stainless or stainless and ceramic coated headers. In my experience mild steel rusts through from the inside in about 5 years on a daily driver.

You will lose some bottom end with long tubes vs. short tubes but that's made up in the mid range and especially on the top end. A tune should help some with the bottom end loss but you will not completely regain all lost. If you don't have one, get a cold air induction to help with airflow in - the same as the header will drastically help your airflow out. Buy all the mods you plan to do before you get the tune and inform the tuner of EVERYTHING you have done. Since you don't have a Predator tuner I'd recommend you pull the pcm and send it to the tuner; you avoid throwing a crank sensor code if you do it that way. That's what will happen if you let the tuner program another pcm and then you ship them your original to replace the one they provide you.

You should ask the tuner to turn off the OBDII codes for the rear O2 sensors as you will most likely get codes for them. I got the codes on the Vette but turned them off with a Predator programmer. The codes are thrown because the O2 sensors are further back than the stock location on long tubes. They are cooler for that reason and that causes them to read that the cats are not working efficiently - too much difference between the front O2 sensor reading and the rear.

Just a suggestion - you could go ahead and buy the headers and hold off on the pcm programming until after Bratfest. Main One will be there; he has installed a cam and that's something you could do that would be a cheaper alternative to a supercharger. That would also make up the loss on the bottom end with the correct cam selection. You could select the correct cam, install it, and then send the pcm in for tuning.

Man! I am tellin ya, I would never say this under normal cercumstances but....I love this guy! hahahaha! Man MyBig you are a freaking wealth of knowledge when to modding issues! If you ever have any question that has to do with the dealer or TSB's or anything of that nature do not hesitate to ask, as that is my area. Thanks again my frienbd for everything, man I owe you some serious beers at bratfest!

[bluedevil]

Man! I am tellin ya, I would never say this under normal cercumstances but....I love this guy! hahahaha! Man MyBig you are a freaking wealth of knowledge when to modding issues! If you ever have any question that has to do with the dealer or TSB's or anything of that nature do not hesitate to ask, as that is my area. Thanks again my frienbd for everything, man I owe you some serious beers at bratfest!

Yep

[Main One]

Dynatech is located about an hour south of me.  I've wondered in the past about maybe having a gtg there sometime.  Maybe they could give us a tour.

[USMC0311]

Dynatech is located about an hour south of me.  I've wondered in the past about maybe having a gtg there sometime.  Maybe they could give us a tour.

Now your talkin!

[Main One]

I'm running JBA shorty headers instead of dynatech long tubes for 3 reasons:

1.  Cost - my JBA's with ceramic coating cost I believe in the neighborhood of $600, vice twice as much for dynatechs.

2.  Loss of low-end torque with the dynatechs.  I believe that is probably more to do with them having a bigger diameter than with them being long-tubes vice shorties.

3.  The shorties fit in exactly where the exhaust manifolds came out from.  Just had to take out the manifolds and put in the headers.  With the long-tubes, need extra plumbing work downstream.

[USMC0311]

I'm running JBA shorty headers instead of dynatech long tubes for 3 reasons:

1.  Cost - my JBA's with ceramic coating cost I believe in the neighborhood of $600, vice twice as much for dynatechs.

2.  Loss of low-end torque with the dynatechs.  I believe that is probably more to do with them having a bigger diameter than with them being long-tubes vice shorties.

3.  The shorties fit in exactly where the exhaust manifolds came out from.  Just had to take out the manifolds and put in the headers.  With the long-tubes, need extra plumbing work downstream.

So how have the shorties worked out for you? i have for the same reasons been looking at shorties also, but like anything else you always have the neigh-sayers out there that say they aren't worth the money and all, but for me I don't really plan on doing anything too crazy with the avy anytime soon, and figure with a good tune shorties would work for now! so curious, were they easy to install? did you notice anything at all? Preciate it Main One thanks for your input, every little bit helps!

[bluedevil]

I have Stainless Steel Gibson shorties.  No problem.    The paasenger side was a walk in the park.  The driver side i had to undo the steering shaft.  No biggie.

[USMC0311]

I have Stainless Steel Gibson shorties.  No problem.    The paasenger side was a walk in the park.  The driver side i had to undo the steering shaft.  No biggie.

Ya kinda what I figured by looking at it. I had to do long tubes on my 72 lemans and if I can do that I can definatly do shorties on the truck!(if you have done longtubes on an old pontiac you know exactly what I am talkin about, especially when they are jet hot coated and you don't want to screw em up!) You find any noticable difference? My avy for some reason is real sluggish when you give her some gas in second or third, I want to remedy that! like I said before I figure shorties and a good tune would be noticable. Thanks for the input blue!