Author Topic: Need some advice on what to do (Read 2707 times)

kklobe · « **on:** August 08, 2009, 05:56:06 AM »

I need some advice from both the turbo folks and the supercharger folks. My 04 Av is stock under the hood except for a simple cold air intake. I'm looking to add some power without going super crazy. I wouldn't mind turbo charging or supercharging the motor. My problem here is that I don't know jack crap about either system.

I would like to hear from the guys that use them on the pros and cons for both systems. Is one harder on the motor, is one more maintenance then the other. What are the options or are there different levels of performance on either system.. I don't want this to sound harsh, but I want to stick to the facts and not opinions on this. I ask this because as I said...I don't know jack about this so it's a big learning process for me and I need facts! I won't be working on the motor for another 11 months because I'm stuck next to He!! here in Saudi. I'll get home sometime in the next 4 months or so to uncover my baby and put a couple of miles on, but that's it.

I'm hoping to be able to make a decision before I get home and hopefully have some parts waiting for me when I get there. My other problem is, while I'm mechanically literate, I have never attempted anything like this....should be educational

Thanks in advance,

Kevin

bluedevil · « **Reply #1 on:** August 08, 2009, 06:18:13 AM »

You do realize this hobby is not cheap right?

I will gather some links for you and post back

kklobe · « **Reply #2 on:** August 08, 2009, 11:42:59 AM »

It's another motorcycle when I finish overseas or some engine work. And the wife isn't too keen on the scooter idea as her dad got hit and messes up pretty bad on his bike.

But I have almost a year to put back some cash so hopefully it won't be too big of a hit all at once.

MyBigToy · « **Reply #3 on:** August 08, 2009, 12:18:22 PM »

The underhood mods are just the start of the money pit. You'll need to upgrade the tranny at a minimum or run it until it blows and then replace it with a fully built unit. The G80 is the next weak link. Once you get used to the additional power the next thing you will want to do is increase the boost. You may want to add a high stall converter to help out with the off-the-line performance a little more. And you may decide to either have a tune done or to purchase tuning software and learn to tune yourself so that the power is optimized. You get the picture.......

If you are looking for ultimate horsepower a turbo is probably better than a supercharger but you have to deal with underhood heat issues if you go with a front-mount unit. The rear mount units seem to have fallen out of favor. For superchargers for the trucks either Magnacharger or Vortech seem to be the most-favored units.

If you are looking for a complete, bolt-it-on and forget it kit, take a look at the various Magnacharger units as they offer the most complete kits. Vortech units are cheaper if you don't go intercooled but you can also do the same thing with the Magnacharger units. Magnacharger twin-screw units (MP112, MP112HH & MP122 series) generally deliver more low rpm horsepower as the boost comes on at lower rpm. The Vortech units offer more ultimate horsepower on the top end. The Magnacharger twin screw units generate more heat at higher rpms and can suffer from heat soak and decreased timing because of this; it's generally not an issue on the street. I don't know much about the new Magnacharger TVS units but they supposedly address the heat soak issues of the MP units.

I chose the Magnacharger MP112, which was the only unit they had out when I installed mine, because of their reliability reputation and because I felt the low rpm horsepower/torque boost is what we need for our 6K lb pigs to get them moving. I think if I was doing it today I would put a TVS 1900 or 2300 unit on my truck; the 2300 is a little overkill for the 5.3.

You can modify any of the units to overcome their specific shortcomings but again, you will be spending additional money. My suggestion would be to look for a used unit at Performance Trucks. You can pick up good, low mileage units over there cheaply. That's also where I would suggest you go to look at the forced induction threads as there are a billion totally rabid horsepower addicts over there.

Hopefully this info will at least give you something to think about and digest. BTW, you are more than welcome to come take a ride in my truck and see how it runs. If you were going to be home for Bratfest you could take a ride in Mick's Vortec-charged truck also. We have yet to line them up to see which one is better!

MyBigToy · « **Reply #4 on:** August 08, 2009, 12:50:58 PM »

I forgot to address the maintenance question - I've put 40K+ miles on my Magnacharger and have yet to touch it since it was installed. Get in, turn the key, and drive! You've gotta love that.

Another information source, if you could get to talk with him, is Allen Nelson of Nelson Performance (Farmtruc on these boards). He's familiar with all of the options for our trucks and specializes in all types of performance enhancements in general. He has a great rep as a tuner for our trucks. He's located in San Antonio, TX.

MyBigToy · « **Reply #5 on:** August 08, 2009, 01:14:34 PM »

You'll probably want to plan on adding long tube headers and a low restriction exhaust. They aren't essential to add but help maximize the performance potential. If you add headers, don't add anything except ceramic coated, stainless steel, or stainless ceramic coated. Ask me how I know not to install mild-steel headers.

bluedevil · « **Reply #6 on:** August 08, 2009, 09:49:20 PM »

You'll like this

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CVmIDi3Azno[/youtube]

A 2003 Chevy Avalanche sporting a 540cid big block chevy with twin supercharged water-to-air intercooled 4-wheel drive that makes 890ftlbs of torque at 2300rpm. Can you say 4-wheel burnouts? built by Nelson Racing Engines - www.NelsonRacingEngines.com

kklobe · « **Reply #7 on:** August 09, 2009, 05:51:06 AM »

Thanks for the input. Now I have somewhere to start looking, but anything else...keep it coming! At least I have plenty of time to do my homework before I get home. I don't believe I will be home for Bratfest, but if I am I'll be spending my few days with the boss and our little girls. I'll have to catch the ride later. I have seen that video before. I think I can take him. Well that is as long as he can't find his keys.
Thanks again for the info. Don't stop now!

K

Main One · « **Reply #8 on:** August 10, 2009, 10:42:33 AM »

You can add about 150 hp to the drivetrain before you can count on breaking things such as the tranny and rearend. KY_Bob has dynoed 500 hp at the rear wheels (more than 200 hp over stock) and hasn't broken his tranny, yet, with the help of a supercharger, nitrous, meth injection, etc. He does have a shift kit in his tranny which may be of some help in keeping it alive. His original rearend didn't last very long - it broke well before he got up to the 500 rwhp level.

Most of the off-the-shelf supercharger kits will provide about 150 hp, which should give you close to 400 rwhp. The trouble is, it is so easy to change supercharger pulleys to get more boost that many people end up doing that and going well over what the rest of the drivetrain can reliably handle.

If you are going to install this yourself, the off-the-shelf supercharger kits will be the easiest. With a turbo, you are going to be getting into not only intake air plumbing, but exhaust plumbing as well. This makes it a bit more work usually, and also if you put the turbo(s) under the hood, adds more "stuff" to work around under the hood.

Good luck with this project. Stay safe over there! I spent 7 weeks in Saudi after Desert Storm. Supposedly was 20 degrees cooler that summer due to the smoke from the Kuwaiti oil well fires set by Saddam, but was still dang hot. Hit 124 one day.

kklobe · « **Reply #9 on:** August 12, 2009, 03:58:03 AM »

This is probably going to make those who already know laugh or cry...but here goes....Just to clarify (and probably scare some), a Centrifugal Supercharger is the same thing as Turbocharger correct?

Did I mention that I don't have a clue on this side of the application....but I intend to learn. I have been looking at the Vortech line...Vortech 4GL218-128SQ - Vortech Centrifugal Supercharger Kits. I have also been reading on the Magnacharger goodies.

From what I gather, heatsoaking the engine/components is basically overheating? And I see the TVS units have a nice $ tag.

K

oHIobellboy · « **Reply #10 on:** August 12, 2009, 05:07:03 AM »

Turbocharger compresses the A/F mixture using exhaust gasses to spin the turbine

Interesting thread with video on both type of Superchargers. Centrifigal (vortec) and roots type (maggie) which are belt driven instead of exhaust gas driven.

MyBigToy · « **Reply #11 on:** August 12, 2009, 06:31:36 AM »

Quote from: kklobe on August 12, 2009, 03:58:03 AM

This is probably going to make those who already know laugh or cry...but here goes....Just to clarify (and probably scare some), a Centrifugal Supercharger is the same thing as Turbocharger correct? The principle is basically the same, yes. OBB indicated the main difference - exhaust gas spooling the turbo vs. a belt driving the centrifugal. A turbo is considered basically "free" power because it doesn't rob horsepower like the accessory-driven belt on a supercharger does.

From what I gather, heatsoaking the engine/components is basically overheating? Screw-type superchargers heat the air through friction as they "twist" (compress) the air into the engine. The smaller the pulley, the faster you turn the screws and the faster you heat up the incoming air charge. Hot air is less dense and therefore will make less power. There is a table in the engine programming that starts pulling timing above a certain IAT. Hot air also is more prone to knock, which again triggers the knock sensors to start pulling timing. I can tell a huge SOTP difference in the amount of power that my truck makes between 100* summertime temperatures and 20* winter temperatures. And I see the TVS units have a nice $ tag. Yes they do. Unfortunately, when you decide to play it doesn't come without its price.

K

kklobe · « **Reply #12 on:** August 12, 2009, 07:07:49 AM »

Quote

Interesting thread with video on both type of Superchargers. Centrifigal (vortec) and roots type (maggie) which are belt driven instead of exhaust gas driven.

As soon as I get to a computer connection that will let me see the link I'll check this out. Crazy governmental computers....

big brothers everywhere!

Main One · « **Reply #13 on:** August 12, 2009, 09:03:02 AM »

No matter whether you use exhaust or a belt as the power source, or whether a roots or centrifigul configuration, laws of thermodynamics are at play which cause the intake air temperature to increase as it is compressed. That said, each type of compression will also have its own peculiarities which may also contribute to temperature increases.

Beyond the issues identified by MBT caused by increased IATs, you also can run a slighter higher boost level for a given compression ratio or conversely a slightly higher compression ratio at a given boost level, (given a constant fuel octane level), with a lower IAT. But more importantly, cooler air is denser air.

Thermodynamic laws state that for ideal gases (air is reseanably close to being an ideal gas) for a given amount of the gas, there is an interrelationship between pressure, volume, and temperature. If we were to hold volume constant (say, the volume of a cylinder intake stroke) if the temperature is held constant, but we double the pressure, we double the amount of air. Conversely though, if the pressure is the same, but double the air temperature, the amount of air going into the cylinder is cut in half.

To figure out how much effect a given air temperature has on the amount of air going in, the temperatures have to be converted to the Kelvin scale. This is because unlike the Fahrenheit or Celcius scales, which have placed 0 degrees at rather arbitrary locations on their scale, 0 degrees Kelvin is ABSOLUTE 0, the coldest possible temperature.

You can find various unit conversion sites on the web to check these figures, or apply different input temperatures to the math I will offer here, but for instance, let's say your boost system is giving you a healthy amount of boost, but at IATs of 160 degrees F. That is 344 degress kelvin. If you ran an intercooler that got your IATs down to 80 degrees F, that would be 300 degrees kelvin. The percentage increase in air that you would be putting into the engine if the boost was the same would be

(344-300)/344 = 13%

13% may not sound like much, but increasing the output of a 400 hp engine by 13% gives you a 452 hp engine.

So adding to the fact that you are getting in denser (more) air, with the benefits of reducing when you will see knocking, and the benefits identified by MBT (which are largely to control knocking), you see why IAT heating (and intercooler cooling) are so important in boosted applications.

kklobe · « **Reply #14 on:** August 12, 2009, 01:23:52 PM »

Quote

Beyond the issues identified by MBT caused by increased IATs, you also can run a slighter higher boost level for a given compression ratio or conversely a slightly higher compression ratio at a given boost level, (given a constant fuel octane level), with a lower IAT. But more importantly, cooler air is denser air.

Thermodynamic laws state that for ideal gases (air is reasonably close to being an ideal gas) for a given amount of the gas, there is an interrelationship between pressure, volume, and temperature. If we were to hold volume constant (say, the volume of a cylinder intake stroke) if the temperature is held constant, but we double the pressure, we double the amount of air. Conversely though, if the pressure is the same, but double the air temperature, the amount of air going into the cylinder is cut in half.

To figure out how much effect a given air temperature has on the amount of air going in, the temperatures have to be converted to the Kelvin scale. This is because unlike the Fahrenheit or Celcius scales, which have placed 0 degrees at rather arbitrary locations on their scale, 0 degrees Kelvin is ABSOLUTE 0, the coldest possible temperature.

You can find various unit conversion sites on the web to check these figures, or apply different input temperatures to the math I will offer here, but for instance, let's say your boost system is giving you a healthy amount of boost, but at IATs of 160 degrees F. That is 344 degress kelvin. If you ran an intercooler that got your IATs down to 80 degrees F, that would be 300 degrees kelvin. The percentage increase in air that you would be putting into the engine if the boost was the same would be

I actually understand...lol

I have noticed different finished surfaces. Is one surface better at dissipating heat compared to another, or is it all cosmetic? Polished, satin....and so on.

MyBigToy · « **Reply #15 on:** August 12, 2009, 02:22:52 PM »

Quote from: kklobe on August 12, 2009, 01:23:52 PM

I actually understand...lol

I have noticed different finished surfaces. Is one surface better at dissipating heat compared to another, or is it all cosmetic? Polished, satin....and so on.

For all practical purposes the surface finish is cosmetic only. The exception would be for chrome plating as the chrome would actually hold heat in.

Generally speaking, the more surface area, the faster the heat dissipation - a satin finish theoretically dissipates heat better than polished because it is rougher and therefore has more surface area. That's why you see ribbed surfaces on aftermarket diecast transmission pans and oil pans.

oHIobellboy · « **Reply #16 on:** August 12, 2009, 02:45:58 PM »

Lots of good reading guys.

kklobe · « **Reply #17 on:** August 14, 2009, 02:32:55 PM »

So after seven hours I have been able to watch about half of the above video. I got to where they started to mount the drive belt and presto magic and crappy sat connections.....nothing

. I like the centrifugal systems but I'm still undecided if that will be the type of system I install. Do either of the styles of systems make very much noise? I know after I installed my cold air intake, I had at least twice the amount of engine noise. After thinking about the way the intake is shaped, without the air box....I was able to understand the noise. But this goes back to the "I have no idea about these again...lol.

Thanks,
Kevin

MyBigToy · « **Reply #18 on:** August 14, 2009, 05:22:36 PM »

The Magnacharger MP units make a pretty loud whine when you are under high boost. There's no additional noise when you're driving normally; there's a vacuum-actuated bypass valve that stays closed under low-load conditions. Compared to the Maggies I've got to say the centrifugals are much quieter; they make more of a whooshing noise like a turbo. I don't know about the TVS units as I've never been around one of them.

kklobe · « **Reply #19 on:** September 21, 2009, 12:50:18 PM »

So here is what I'm considering...http://www.summitracing.com/parts/VOR-4GL218-128SQ/ But with this unit, an intercooler will help improve performance through the summer correct? I understand the hot air/cold air issues. It's the same thing when we fly the medivac choppers. You get more lift with cooler air...

I still think this is one of those "I should have someone else install" operations. I am very mechanically literate, but never having attempted anything like this, I still don't know yet

If I don't go with the vortech unit then possibly: http://www.superchargersonline.com/product_detail.asp?Sent=FREERIDE1@EMBARQMAIL.COM&ProductID=1470&s_emessage=

And as always fire away with any good, bad or ugly stories with either of these systems...

Thank,
Kevin

MyBigToy · « **Reply #20 on:** September 21, 2009, 01:45:03 PM »

The Magnacharger unit you linked to is the 112 unit I've got on my truck. I would suggest going with the MP122HH (high helix) unit instead as it gives you a little more room to grow. I believe the Vortech unit is the same one KY_Bob & Blue have but the price seems a little high to me for a non-intercooled unit. Trust me, you want to leave yourself some room to grow because you won't be satisfied with the as-delivered power once you get used to it.

If you aren't in a hurry, check out the PerformanceTrucks.net "for sale" section as you can pick up low-mileage, used units for a really good price. Just be sure you check out the seller before buying if you decide to go that route. There was a slightly used MP122HH there recently for $3500. It had been used for something like 6000 miles and was sent back to Magnacharger to be checked over, supplied with a new #2 box, and was being shipped directly from Magnacharger.

As far as the install; I was going to do mine myself but was working non-stop, 7 days a week when I purchased it. I decided it would never get installed unless I paid someone to do it; I used a local Magnacharger rep to do the install. They charged me 12 hours of labor. I could have gotten it done a little cheaper somewhere else but I talked to the shop owners and decided I would rather pay a little more to get it done right - one of the owners installed it himself and he's just as picky as I am. The install is not rocket science but if you don't feel comfortable attempting it, you should probably let someone else do it. There are almost always some small install snags that you run into that require you to adjust/make parts or improvise.

I've given my experience with my MP112 - 40K+ miles and I've never touched it. I'll let the Vortech guys (KY_Bob & Blue) chime in on their experiences - they have two different experiences with their units. I'm not sure how many miles either of them have put on their units.

KY_BOB · « **Reply #21 on:** September 22, 2009, 01:27:23 PM »

OK, I'll try to kick in a little input. The Vortech kit that you linked to is the exact kit that I started with. It's reasonable priced, easy to install, and dependable. I know have over 20k on mine with no problems. It will probably give you a solid 100hp off the shelf. Can you (have I) get a lot more out of it? Oh yea! There is a price both in more parts, tuning, and broken drivetrain pieces. In everyday driving, you'll never know it's there until you put your foot to the floor and the tranny downshifts. Then, it IS there. Don't bolt one on and expect your truck to smoke the tires from a dead stop unless you have a higher stall speed torque converter. It adds power at 1600 rpm (stall speed of a stock converter) but not much. By 3000rpm, it's pulling hard and will continue pulling harder and harder until your shift. With a stock cam and springs and considering that you have boost pressure trying to push open your intake valves (cause valve float), you have to limit it to 5800 or so IMO. Plus you are way past the rpm that the cam was designed to produce it's best power. After the cam, springs, pulley, ect, ect, changes on mine, I'm shifting at 6200rpm and it's still pulling like a freight train with 10-11psi of boost.

A vortech with the factory pulley doesn't have to have an intercooler (that's not to say that it would be nice to have). Once you turn up the boost, the IAT's (inlet air temp gets hot quick). I'm chemically intercooling mine with methanol injection. At this point, I won't even get into relocating the IAT sensor so that the computer can protect the engine form high IAT's but if you up the boost, you really need to do this mod.

The Maggie will give you more bottom end torque but less top end. It is also a very well designed kit. It's a little more involved to install but still not too bad from what I've heard. (never done one myself). It's also more expensive. It does come with an intercooler that works good at the factory boost level. If you go down in pulley size to make more boost, my understanding is that it quickly gets beyond the cooling capacity of the intercooler. IMO, it's a great kit too.

Turbo: The most possible power, the most possible problems, the hardest install, the most fabrication and one-off pieces to make it work.

My $.02

KY_BOB · « **Reply #22 on:** September 22, 2009, 01:39:23 PM »

Quote from: kklobe on August 14, 2009, 02:32:55 PM

So after seven hours I have been able to watch about half of the above video. I got to where they started to mount the drive belt and presto magic and crappy sat connections.....nothing . I like the centrifugal systems but I'm still undecided if that will be the type of system I install. Do either of the styles of systems make very much noise? I know after I installed my cold air intake, I had at least twice the amount of engine noise. After thinking about the way the intake is shaped, without the air box....I was able to understand the noise. But this goes back to the "I have no idea about these again...lol.

Thanks,
Kevin

My Vortec has a slightly noticeable whistle to it at idle. The average Joe (not MBT) would never notice it with the hood down. You can't hear it in the truck. My exhaust is fairly loud at all times and I have an exhaust cutout. If the cutout is open, your never going to hear anything but exhaust. If it's closed, you can not hear the supercharger in normal driving. At WOT you can hear the sound of air rapidly rushing through the plumbing.

kklobe · « **Reply #23 on:** September 23, 2009, 10:10:14 AM »

Thanks again for the input, everything has been very helpful. After reading and reading some more, I still haven't made up my mind. Now for the fun stuff. The wife is trying to put her foot down and say that nothing needs to be done to my baby. "It's not a sportscar, it's a truck"... to be exact.

Not a sportscar....I'll show her!!!!

Now let me say before anyone takes that the wrong way. Tracy and I have a very open line of communication, we like to rib the other when we don't agree with what they want. Ultimately this is a family decision and we will discuss it but now I just want to go cry in the corner.....

I mean where does she get off.....Just because I bought her a minivan...twice...and just because we have three Angels from god (children for the slower readers) COME ON NOW! This is all about what I want. And what if she is my wife, what right does that give her to tell me what I can and can't do to MY Av? I'll show her, just wait until I get home....I'll do whatever I want....like taking out the trash....raking the yard....putting away the laundry.....ya know all of the "usual" guy stuff.

And on a serious note, I do hope I can convince her to let me do something. Time will tell..... And can anyone tell me if there is anything coming up around the end of October to the first week in November? I have some leave and we are looking at doing something besides just setting at home.

Thanks and tune in next week for an exciting update to "

over".

oHIobellboy · « **Reply #24 on:** September 23, 2009, 03:34:56 PM »

Quote from: kklobe on September 23, 2009, 10:10:14 AM

Thanks again for the input, everything has been very helpful. After reading and reading some more, I still haven't made up my mind. Now for the fun stuff. The wife is trying to put her foot down and say that nothing needs to be done to my baby. "It's not a sportscar, it's a truck"... to be exact. Not a sportscar....I'll show her!!!!

Now let me say before anyone takes that the wrong way. Tracy and I have a very open line of communication, we like to rib the other when we don't agree with what they want. Ultimately this is a family decision and we will discuss it but now I just want to go cry in the corner.....

I mean where does she get off.....Just because I bought her a minivan...twice...and just because we have three Angels from god (children for the slower readers) COME ON NOW! This is all about what I want. And what if she is my wife, what right does that give her to tell me what I can and can't do to MY Av? I'll show her, just wait until I get home....I'll do whatever I want....like taking out the trash....raking the yard....putting away the laundry.....ya know all of the "usual" guy stuff.

And on a serious note, I do hope I can convince her to let me do something. Time will tell..... And can anyone tell me if there is anything coming up around the end of October to the first week in November? I have some leave and we are looking at doing something besides just setting at home.

Thanks and tune in next week for an exciting update to " over".

kklobe · « **Reply #25 on:** September 24, 2009, 11:29:55 AM »

It seems as "that discussion" came a lot faster than I was expecting. Turns out the boss had already made up her mind on this issue long before she let me know.

So it looks like I won't be adding any ponies to the Av via engine mods.

I am able to pick up a tuner, Pred ordered. Are the tuners fairly straight forward for the computerly challenged guy? Mechanical issues I can troubleshoot and figure out, but programming has always been my weekness; however, I can write you a library cataloging program if you like, lol.

Thanks for all of the input and information. I'll keep you all updated as to how soon she is going to kill me.

K

MyBigToy · « **Reply #26 on:** September 24, 2009, 12:34:07 PM »

Loading the "canned" Predator program in is very simple. However, you will want to tweak the parameters to customize the tune to your truck. That takes some reading to learn how to do it. Just join the Diablosport forum and do some reading or come on down to St. Louis when you get some time and someone can help you learn how to tweak it.

KY_BOB · « **Reply #27 on:** September 25, 2009, 04:42:10 AM »

How about easing her in to getting used to you spending money on the AV with some smaller mods that would also work well with a supercharger at a later date. A Corvette servo is less than $20 (about $100 if you want to change both servos). You can do that in the name of making you trans last longer. A trans oil cooler isn't expensive. Again, it's a longevity thing that would be a big help if you ever go forced induction but will help anyway. A cat-back exhaust? Headers?

MyBigToy · « **Reply #28 on:** September 25, 2009, 06:27:12 AM »

Quote from: KY_BOB on September 25, 2009, 04:42:10 AM

How about easing her in to getting used to you spending money on the AV with some smaller mods that would also work well with a supercharger at a later date. A Corvette servo is less than $20 (about $100 if you want to change both servos). You can do that in the name of making you trans last longer. A trans oil cooler isn't expensive. Again, it's a longevity thing that would be a big help if you ever go forced induction but will help anyway. A cat-back exhaust? Headers?

Bob's always trying to help! (Spend someone else's money, that is).

But then again, he's had a little prodding along the way to spend some of his own money. He's probably like me and is afraid to start adding up how much he's actually spent.

KY_BOB · « **Reply #29 on:** September 27, 2009, 05:24:49 PM »

Quote from: MyBigToy on September 25, 2009, 06:27:12 AM

He's probably like me and is afraid to start adding up how much he's actually spent.

The thought of adding up what I've spent on my truck over the past 6 years is scary.

I could have bought another nice vehicle for what I've spent on mods but I've never actually added it up and won't.

Main One · « **Reply #30 on:** September 28, 2009, 10:32:47 AM »

Quote from: kklobe on September 23, 2009, 10:10:14 AM

And on a serious note, I do hope I can convince her to let me do something. Time will tell..... And can anyone tell me if there is anything coming up around the end of October to the first week in November? I have some leave and we are looking at doing something besides just setting at home.

I'm hosting a Haunted Tunnel Road Rally on the 24th of October in southern Indiana (Seymour, IN). Would love to have you join us. Maybe we could twist Bob's arm enough into coming and he could show off some of his mods, including his SC and NO2. If not, you can look at, hear, experience mine.

Here's a link on the gtg. I need to work on a signature banner.

http://www.chevyavalancheclub.com/index.php/topic,5436.0.html

kklobe · « **Reply #31 on:** September 28, 2009, 11:04:21 PM »

Thanks again for the input. I'm picking up the tuner for $335, doesn't seem like a bad price from what I have seen. I have a buddy from highschool who took over the family business (new car dealership). As I'm getting home to the wife and kiddos the 24th might be a bit soon to get out. I'll let you know what I find out.

Thanks again

K

Main One · « **Reply #32 on:** September 29, 2009, 06:58:57 AM »

Good luck with the tuner. As always, ask away if you have any questions. I've used the Hypertech, and I imagine whatever you get, someone around here has some experience with it.

M1

kklobe · « **Reply #33 on:** September 30, 2009, 02:20:40 AM »

Thanks again for all of the input. I am looking at the servos for the tranny. I have read the posts on changing the servos, and it doesn't seem difficult. I'll be picking up the Predator so I'll have to wait and see how it goes. I am looking at (for now) turning off the traction control while I'm home. Then when I'm done overseas I want to play with some custom tuning.

Time will tell.....

Main One · « **Reply #34 on:** September 30, 2009, 07:21:02 AM »

Quote from: kklobe on September 30, 2009, 02:20:40 AM

I am looking at (for now) turning off the traction control while I'm home.

That is one very easy, and FREE, mod!

kklobe · « **Reply #35 on:** October 01, 2009, 11:32:21 PM »

I'll bite, where is the free in that one?

MyBigToy · « **Reply #36 on:** October 02, 2009, 06:03:34 AM »

Quote from: kklobe on October 01, 2009, 11:32:21 PM

I'll bite, where is the free in that one?

I suspect you were talking about removing torque management, not disabling the traction control. It's easy to remove TM with the Diablosport programmer.

kklobe · « **Reply #37 on:** October 02, 2009, 12:56:51 PM »

Yes I want to turn off Torque Management. I can't stand it when I step on the fuel from a stop and nothing happens....and nothing...and nothi...wait there it is.

Main One · « **Reply #38 on:** October 02, 2009, 04:35:38 PM »

Quote from: kklobe on October 01, 2009, 11:32:21 PM

I'll bite, where is the free in that one?

Look under tech articles. On a Z66, getting traction control to default to off every time you start the truck is as easy as resetting your oil life indicator after an oil change.

Alternatively, with a custom tune, you can change traction control to pull 0 timing if you want to do it that way.

kklobe · « **Reply #39 on:** October 04, 2009, 05:58:00 AM »

I'll have to go with pulling 0 timing. I have had the wheels slip on rainy roads from a stop, but then (as you already know) abara-kadabra......nothing....

I'm not looking to smoke the tires. I have a 72 Riviera with a 455-400 turbo

if I want to put some rubber on the road. I just want to go when I step on the dang fuel!