Topic: 10 Tips For Better Brake Performance

[bluedevil]

1. Always use a quality brake fluid rated at DOT 4 or higher. Synthetic fluid is more expensive but is also worth the cost for full-size trucks that can easily heat up brake systems.

2. Keep the lid on your brake fluid reservoir. The fluid attracts moisture from the air and can eventually cause corrosion within the brake lines. Periodically change old fluid.

3. Use brake pads that are bonded, not riveted to the backing plate. Drum shoes are the exception. Using bonded pads eliminates the chance of the pad shearing off or the rivets grinding into the Rotor when the pads are excessively worn.

4. Always use a high-quality grade brake pad. The Carbon Metallic pads are best, but they leave a carbon deposit on your wheels. Better pads offer better braking so use the best pads you can find.

5. Break in new sets of brake pads. Proper brake pad “bedding” allows the pads to seat correctly and eliminates the gases formed in the bonding process. The procedure involves heating up the pads under slow, moderate braking and then allowing them to air cool on the highway.

6. Periodically check the brake hoses for cracks and replace them if necessary. If you’ve replaced your brakes with an aftermarket unit, check the hard lines as well, to ensure they are not kinked or rub against the frame or any other part of the truck.

7. Brake squeals don’t mean your brakes are bad. Squeals are caused by vibrations when the pads are pressed against the rotor. If the rotors have been overheated, it can cause vibrations and lead to squeals. Having the Rotor turned by a professional can eliminate them.

8. Unless your rotors are deeply scared from a worn brake pad, they usually don’t need to be turned. Drilled and vented rotors must be turned on a different kind of lathe and will probably cost you more to do.

9. Warm up your brakes before hitting the morning traffic by stopping slowly once or twice. rotors can develop cracks going from dead cold to high heat from a sudden stop.

10. Heat is your brake’s worst enemy. Larger diameter Wheels and Tires are heavier and are much harder on your brake system. At a minimum, you should use open Wheels that allow lots of air flow or upgrade to a larger diameter system if you are using big Wheels and tires.

[KY_BOB]

8. Unless your rotors are deeply scared from a worn brake pad, they usually don’t need to be turned. Drilled and vented rotors must be turned on a different kind of lathe and will probably cost you more to do.

I didn't know that and I used to turn rotors when I worked at a parts store, of course that was 15 years ago and there weren't many crossdrilled or slotted roters back then.  Good info :thumb:

[Freebie]

Quick question, I was reading through the tech section on how to change brake pads (gonna attempt to do this one on my own) and one step I am not sure about...
"6. Inspect the caliper operation.  Notice: Support the brake caliper with heavy mechanic's wire, or equivalent, whenever it is separated from its mount and the hydraulic flexible brake hose is still connected. Failure to support the caliper in this manner will cause the flexible brake hose to bear the weight of the caliper, which may cause damage to the brake hose and in turn may cause a brake fluid leak."
What exactly does it mean to support the caliper with wire?  Does it mean I just shouldn't let it hang down by the brake line?  And while I have your attention, from what I've read Avs come with ceramic pads, is that what I should put on again?

[bluedevil]

Quick question, I was reading through the tech section on how to change brake pads (gonna attempt to do this one on my own) and one step I am not sure about...
"6. Inspect the caliper operation.  Notice: Support the brake caliper with heavy mechanic's wire, or equivalent, whenever it is separated from its mount and the hydraulic flexible brake hose is still connected. Failure to support the caliper in this manner will cause the flexible brake hose to bear the weight of the caliper, which may cause damage to the brake hose and in turn may cause a brake fluid leak."
What exactly does it mean to support the caliper with wire?  Does it mean I just shouldn't let it hang down by the brake line?  And while I have your attention, from what I've read Avs come with ceramic pads, is that what I should put on again?

The wire they're talking about is,  ....use a cloth hanger wire to tie the caliper unit to the frame or axle so it hangs and the brake line doesnt kink and pull.
That is done when youre pulling the old pads and looking for the new ones,or getting them out of the box.

You only have 2 hands ya' know?


Ceramics?...that,i do not know.  I'd use whatever NAPA or AuotZone recommends.

[Freebie]

Gotcha, thanks for the quick response!  I went to Autozone yesterday to check em out, they had semi-metallic ones and ceramic ones, ceramics were about $15 more, but after reading some threads on CAF I think I am going to go with the ceramics, the other ones are messy...

[bluedevil]

Gotcha, thanks for the quick response!  I went to Autozone yesterday to check em out, they had semi-metallic ones and ceramic ones, ceramics were about $15 more, but after reading some threads on CAF I think I am going to go with the ceramics, the other ones are messy...

 

[oHIobellboy]

Gotcha, thanks for the quick response!  I went to Autozone yesterday to check em out, they had semi-metallic ones and ceramic ones, ceramics were about $15 more, but after reading some threads on CAF I think I am going to go with the ceramics, the other ones are messy...

I went to AZ when I got mine and did them. they told me it came with ceramic so that's what I got.

[Freebie]

I went to AZ when I got mine and did them. they told me it came with ceramic so that's what I got.

Did any of the bolts give you a hard time?  Trying to decide whether or not to pick up a break bar while I'm out...

[bluedevil]

Did any of the bolts give you a hard time?  Trying to decide whether or not to pick up a break bar while I'm out...

Bolts usually come very easy.  Get yourself a 4" C-Clamp to keep the pistons "IN" once the assembly is removed from the discs.

[Freebie]

Bolts usually come very easy.  Get yourself a 4" C-Clamp to keep the pistons "IN" once the assembly is removed from the discs.

Thanks again... everything I was reading just said a "large c-clamp", I was kinda wondering what size "large" is    I'll try to get pics of step by step to put up here, hopefully it doesn't rain tomorrow so I can get this done!