Did you know?The uncladded model, known as the Without Body Hardware (or better by its acronym 'WBH'), and alternatively called 'slicksides' by GM marketers.
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Lots of scotchlocks and tbt20....lol
Hmmmmm,, now i wonder if there's a way to make it work with the hazard lights...
turn signals are wired into each side. when I hit the hazards, it acts like the brake light., what the heck, can't hope for too many bonuses
btw, mine does not flash with the hazards. just stays steady red.
OH YEAH, just love the looks on the faces of the people behind me! Kinda suprising what drop wire, scotchlocks and tbt20 will do.
ty, next up is the frontrunner by waag and I talked to mpstech over at the national site about some custom grab bars for the rear (you'll love these!). Oops, I forgot. I've got to heat up the garage for Fri so I can detail this thing for the gtg in Columbus on sunday and get my carbon fiber decal dash kit installed.
Found a link to a site with some pretty unbelievable prices on the LOF's - the scanning ones are only $70!! I think I need to replace my plain one with a scanning one CLICK HERE
Quick check,Fire and Ice or Firestorm? I have to do something to my baby when I have her for two weeks in October. I'm still trying to decide on how to up the ponies so I'll be working on something a bit easier for now. I have looked at both of these lighting systems but I wanted to hear from the people who do or have actually used them. I don't mind splicing into the wiring so the tech side isn't a problem. Has anyone had reliability issues from either? Pros or Cons?Kevin
would still be working just fine if I hadn't cracked it when I put my tailgate torsion bar in
Here's you sign . Sounds like you have my luck. I like what I had seen with the Firestorm but I didn't want the hassle of always unplugging my trailer lights with the Fire and Ice. How long did you have yours? Did you have any issues with the weather, condensation or anything?
Yes, the t-adapter works well - I've been using one for 6 years now.I've used a couple of different line of fire models from different manufacturers. They were all red leds, without any sequential action. Running, brake, turn signal and hazard functions.The problem I've had is with part of the stock part of my truck that drives these signals going to the trailer wiring harness. The running light function (lower intensity than the brake light or turn signal levels) quit working. At first I suspected a poor connection and then replaced my LOF but that didn't fix the problem. Replacing the module did fix the problem, but the problem has returned again, this time driving a different brand of LOF. I suspect a design deficiency with this module. Maybe others though don't see this problem and there is some other issue with how I have installed my LOFs.
I wonder if that is the problem with my 01 Silverado. I don't have running lights on my LOF or any thing that I am towing. Brake lights work fine. Where is the module at and how much does it cost? Any other symptoms of the module going out?
If you get the "T" adapter that plugs in the wiring harness under the truck, You won't have to splice into anything nor will you have to unplug your LOF evreytime. It is $29 but worth it in my opinion.The only thing the fire & ice gives you extra is reverse lights which in my opinion isn't worth the extra cost.
Donnie, I'm glad you prompted me to look into this again because after reviewing the schematics this evening, I don't think our current problem matches my previous one. I guess memory is the first thing that goes when you're getting old. It looks to me like we should be making sure a 15 A fuse in the underhood fuse block that feeds the trailer parking lights would be a good thing for us to check.I believe I previously replaced the turn signal multifunction module, to fix the LOF stoplight and/or turn signal function. Those signals (the ones directed to the trailer connector that is) are sourced by this module, but the parking light power is driven by a single relay which drives all bulbs that come on with the parking lights. It puts power to 3 or 4 fuses, one of them being the TRLR PARK fuse. From there, it's just wiring and connectors back to the trailer connector for that signal.HTHM1
Brings something to mind.......have you looked at the connector block on the passenger side in the rear where those wires all meet up for corrosion/bad connection?
The TRLR PRK fuse was blown. Fixed my problem. I would have never even thought to have looked for that.
That's great! Glad I could help.Unfortunately, I checked mine last night and it wasn't blown.
I bringing this back to the top after a pretty long hiatus. I just found out tonight that my LOF has quit working sometime in the past month. So how has this mod worked out for you, OBB? Is it still working? If I've got to replace mine I'm at least going with one with reverse lights in it.How about different brands? I know the Altec light bars were the most reliable when they came out and that Plasmaglow was pretty bad. Anybody tried Recon brand? They have one that I'm seriously considering trying. I haven't been able to find any recent info on reliability.
Did the whole thing quit working or just a few lights? If the whole thing quit working, check the trailer light fuse. The one on my Silvy was out and I thought my LOF was the wrong one, I ordered the running light version and it wasn't working. Once I changed the fuse, presto, it started working.
The whole thing quit working. I haven't looked into it yet; one of the first things I'll check is just to make sure it's still plugged in and that the wire is not broken. Next will be to see if there are any blown fuses. I figure I'm way ahead of the game as it's been on the truck for 7 years. It's one of the original Altec Line-of-Fire models. I noticed last weekend when I was sweeping out the bed of the truck that the plastic is yellowing pretty badly.
MBT, from what I've been reading lately, there is now an adapter for these that will make it work without hardwiring it. I don't know how true that is. I tried the trailer wires on mine at first but the pulse for the turn signal want long enough to make the scanning ts go the complete distance. I had to wire mine into the wires behind the housing.
I have the adapter on ours. All you do is separate the the big round plug behind the bumper and put the adapter in. It has a flat 4 plug coming off of it. found ours at Lowes for $29.
So the Plasmaglow Firestorm comes with several bare wires that need to be spliced?? Does anybody have a wiring diagram? My girlfriend wants one of the Plasmaglow Firestorms for Christmas, I found the 48" at autoanything for $133.?? but can't find the 60". Thanks!
Wow, $145, that's a pretty good deal! Now for the wiring diagram!
I'm pretty sure I found them on Fleabay also. I haven't done anything with mine yet; I'm not too crazy about crawling around on the cold ground right now.