Author Topic: Super Charger Installation Fun/Aggrevation (Read 2923 times)

Main One · « **on:** June 14, 2011, 11:54:47 AM »

Preamble

Well, it had been sitting on the garage floor for several months. Last weekend's forecast was quite a bit cooler than it had been, so I thought it was time to Git Er Done!

I thought I could start on this on Saturday morning and get it done Sunday, possibly if things went well wrap up on Saturday evening. After all, I had assisted in removing this thing from KY Bob's AV, and as the new ower of his AV, I had some residual evidence of how it was installed. I was optimistic.

In part 1 I will share my installation experience, day 1.

Zora Arkus-Duntov · « **Reply #1 on:** June 14, 2011, 01:35:33 PM »

Main One · « **Reply #2 on:** June 14, 2011, 01:37:57 PM »

I actually did some work on the truck last Friday night, so Day 1 will cover those activities. At least that day went well.

KY_BOB · « **Reply #3 on:** June 14, 2011, 02:01:52 PM »

Considering I've been through this myself, I'm looking forward to reading this.

Enkei · « **Reply #4 on:** June 14, 2011, 05:16:07 PM »

We wait for this one.....

MyBigToy · « **Reply #5 on:** June 14, 2011, 05:35:47 PM »

You should just put it back on Bob's truck and give Yeller to your son. Bob's has a lot fewer miles on it. So are you doing it by yourself or do you have some help?

I will also be watching this one, most likely with some amusement.

AHNAML · « **Reply #6 on:** June 14, 2011, 08:42:59 PM »

count me in on the show.

Alaska_AV · « **Reply #7 on:** June 15, 2011, 01:11:17 AM »

May you have much suckcess

MyBigToy · « **Reply #8 on:** June 15, 2011, 06:24:43 AM »

Quote from: Alaska_AV on June 15, 2011, 01:11:17 AM

May you have much suckcess

Hoping someone else has some of the frustration you've had modding, are you?

Main One · « **Reply #9 on:** June 15, 2011, 07:24:45 AM »

Part 1 - Day 1

This was last Friday evening after work. I wanted to get the boost and fuel pressure gauges that Bob included installed so that I could take advantage of the info they would provide. I had received a 2-gauge a-pillar cover, with Bose tweeter hole, and was ready to go. I decided how I wanted to run my power, ground, signal wires, and vacuum/boost tubing up behind the cover and started soldering at the kitchen table. Bob had butchered his original a-pillar cover some and I wanted to do a neater job. I ended up drilling two 7/16 holes (through the original cover) to feed the two gauges and dressed each with a small grommet. If I ever wanted to demod like Bob had done, I wanted to have the original cover look pretty decent if possible. Bob had used several barbed plastic push-pin type fasteners to hold the gauge cover up against the original cover - I decided to try 2-sided foam tape. After getting the new cover in place over the original, I realized that with the gauges in it the tape was not going to hold up the weight. I decided to drill a hole through both covers near the top and pretty close to the windshield, and installed a plastic push-in rivet fastener. I think the install looks pretty good - I need to take and post a pic. For power, I soldered the power lead to the same fuse tap I was using for my backup monitor, and also grounded to the same place - both are behind the driver's side fuse panel cover. I decided to run the signal wires and tubing through the firewall behind the parking brake pedal. That spot seemed pretty convenient to get to - just pulled back the carpet some after removing the kick panel besides the parking brake, and on the other side pulled out of few the plastic rivets holding in the plastic fender liner behind the front tire - driver's side and pulled back the liner. I decided I'd tackle drilling the hole in the morning, and use the same size gromment as I had used in the a-cover pillar.

So far, everything was going well.

Intimidatoruag · « **Reply #10 on:** June 15, 2011, 07:44:20 AM »

that was 5 days ago .... but just posted today ..... uh oh .... things sound like they went down hill from there ...

waiting for the rest of the story ...

John

Main One · « **Reply #11 on:** June 15, 2011, 07:05:46 PM »

Gauge installation pics. I unfortunately put a pretty good scratch in the cover near the top, and it looks stained down low. I knew about the scratch, but hadn't seen the stain before looking at these pics.

Main One · « **Reply #12 on:** June 15, 2011, 07:06:50 PM »

Main One · « **Reply #13 on:** June 15, 2011, 07:08:01 PM »

From the outside, getting into the driver's seat

Main One · « **Reply #14 on:** June 15, 2011, 07:10:01 PM »

From the driver's seat. The fuel pressure gauge really dives at higher rpm. I need to get the aux fuel pump installed.

Main One · « **Reply #15 on:** June 15, 2011, 07:33:30 PM »

Part 2 - Day 2

Saturday morning. I got a fairly early start for me - before 8. Drilled the hole to pass wires and vacuum/boost tubing into the cab. Hit it with some rust prevention primer spray paint from both sides. Drank half a cup of coffee waiting for the paint to dry. Paint wasn't drying - decided to move on with the rest of the installation.

First I changed the #1 spark plug because it is a real PITA to get to with this SC installed. I then pulled the intake tube from the throttle body and removed the alternator. Didn't need to mess with the fan shroud as I've put an e-fan on from an 05. Began the PITA job of pulling the power steering pump pulley off in order to remove the alternator bracket. After much wrenching got the pulley off. Removed the alternator bracket and proceeded to install the alternator/SC bracket. Got it on and then did the PITA job of putting the power steering pulley back on. Went to install the alternator and realized I was supposed to press in the bushings into the alternator bolt openings before installing the bracket. After about 20 minutes of trying to figure out a way to do it with the bracket on the engine, began to repeat the PITA job of removing the pulley, then removed the bracket, pressed in the bushings, reinstalled the bracket, and then the other PITA repeat of putting the ps pulley back on, again. Was finally able to get the alternator back on. Not putting the bushings in when I should have cost me about an hour of labor. I bolted the SC to the bracket. I tried fitting the 2 belts that Bob had given me but as I figured both were too long due to my reduction crank pulley. It looked like I needed a belt about an inch shorter than the shorter one Bob gave me. I think it was about this time that I ate lunch.

Next I worked on the oil supply/return for the SC. This required drilling and tapping a hole in the side of the engine oil pan for the return line, and bolting on an adapter near where the oil filter is located, which is also near where the oil pan was supposed to be tapped. The kit came with a rotabroach cutting tool to make a 9/16 hole for a 3/8 NPT pipe thread tap, but Bob had misplaced it. I used a multistep drill bit, which worked great, but created a lot of metal chunks. I had decided ahead of time that I was going to remove the oil pan and drill and tap it on the bench, so that didn't really matter, but it did take a bit of extra time and work dropping the oil pan. I ran the oil lines to the SC and decided since it was now almost 7 pm to call it a day. I cleaned up and made a run to a parts store before it closed to get a shorter belt. Other than the extra hour dealing with 2 little bushings, it seemed to have been a pretty productive day. Oh - I think I did find that the paint had finally dried and I installed a grommet on the firewall hole, ran the wires and tubing through, and sealed up with some RTV. I decided when I got back from the parts store to check to see how the new belt fit. I found out that instead of selling me a belt an inch SHORTER than the one I took into Autozone for reference, they had sold me one an inch LONGER!

KY_BOB · « **Reply #16 on:** June 15, 2011, 08:47:20 PM »

Quote from: Main One on June 15, 2011, 07:33:30 PM

Began the PITA job of pulling the power steering pump pulley off in order to remove the alternator bracket. After much wrenching got the pulley off. Removed the alternator bracket and proceeded to install the alternator/SC bracket. Got it on and then did the PITA job of putting the power steering pulley back on. Went to install the alternator and realized I was supposed to press in the bushings into the alternator bolt openings before installing the bracket. After about 20 minutes of trying to figure out a way to do it with the bracket on the engine, began to repeat the PITA job of removing the pulley, then removed the bracket, pressed in the bushings, reinstalled the bracket, and then the other PITA repeat of putting the ps pulley back on, again.

I had totally forgot about that until reading about your experience. I did the exact same thing! If I had been there, I would have probably done it a second time. It's a really disheartening feeling when you realize that your only move is to remove what you have just spent an hour or more installing.

For any of you that haven't replaced a PS pump on one of these things, PITA is a mild term.

Zora Arkus-Duntov · « **Reply #17 on:** June 15, 2011, 09:01:53 PM »

define..... Irony

Quote

Chevy Avalanche Performance Modifications
Perf: Forced Induction
SuperChargers (Moderators: KY_BOB, Main One)
Topic: Super Charger Installation Fun/Aggrevation

KY_BOB · « **Reply #18 on:** June 15, 2011, 09:19:54 PM »

Quote from: Zora Arkus-Duntov on June 15, 2011, 09:01:53 PM

define..... Irony

Point taken.

Zora Arkus-Duntov · « **Reply #19 on:** June 16, 2011, 04:57:37 PM »

Lingenfelter?s Adjustable RPM Limiter

http://www.lsxtv.com/?s=avalanche

Ski Edition · « **Reply #20 on:** June 16, 2011, 09:50:49 PM »

I want to get in on the show too.

KY_BOB · « **Reply #21 on:** June 16, 2011, 10:25:46 PM »

M1, I did an inspection on the 2011 5.3 tonight. The PS pump pulley has huge holes in it to allow you to get to the bracket bolts. You can drop the pump without pulling the pulley. Wouldn't that make this type of work SOOOO much easier?

Main One · « **Reply #22 on:** June 17, 2011, 08:58:35 AM »

Quote from: Zora Arkus-Duntov on June 16, 2011, 04:57:37 PM

Lingenfelter?s Adjustable RPM Limiter

http://www.lsxtv.com/?s=avalanche

This could come in handy, particularly the individual cylinder RPM control. It is not very good to have your cylinders operating at different rpms.

Main One · « **Reply #23 on:** June 17, 2011, 09:02:58 AM »

Quote from: KY_BOB on June 16, 2011, 10:25:46 PM

M1, I did an inspection on the 2011 5.3 tonight. The PS pump pulley has huge holes in it to allow you to get to the bracket bolts. You can drop the pump without pulling the pulley. Wouldn't that make this type of work SOOOO much easier?

You should find out who sold that engineering change to GM design and buy them a case of beer!

Main One · « **Reply #24 on:** June 17, 2011, 03:12:10 PM »

Part III - Day 3

Well, Sunday morning I went to church per normal practice and didn't get to working on the truck until about 1 in the afternoon. Was able to get the shorter belt in between church and then, and was very pleased that the latest belt fit like a glove.

So now it was time to deal with the air plumbing. One of the first things I discovered was that the power brake booster and manifold extended farther forward in my '03 than Bob's old '02, and that it was a challenge to get the plastic piece that funneled air around to the back side of the SC and into its intake in place because of that. Was finally able to find a way to get it into place. Attached all of the other air plumbing pieces and was ready to fire her up!

I grabbed the laptop to program into the PCM the stock timing table. I fired up HPTuners and got a message indicating no power on the OBDII port. I decided I'd test fire it with the tune I had in it and deal with the port power issue later, guessing that I had blown a fuse. Fired it up and noticed a couple of disturbing things: an oil leak where the oil supply line to the SC was hooked up to the engine, and my e-fans were running before the engine had warmed up.

The oil leak needed to be fixed, but it was leaking a drop about every 2 seconds so it wasn't too bad of a deal while I worked on the other kinks. I recalled that I had unplugged a sensor near the #1 spark plug when I had changed it the day before, and figured it was probably the coolant temp sensor. It was conveniently located underneath the SC and behind a mass of tubing for air, oil, and wiring. I decided the best thing to do was to disconnect the air input and output tubes from the SC, unbolt it from the bracket, and move it in order to get better access to the sensor that I suspected that I had left unplugged. I did such, and sure enough, the connector was still hanging there not plugged in. After plugging it back in, I did some rearranging of the mass of wire runs that were running beside and underneath the SC. There's a lot of wiring here due to being in close proximity to the PCM, underhood fuse center, and battery. My wiring for the e-fans was also routed through this now rather congested area. I rerouted some lines for the e-fans as well as the battery negative terminal hookup. This also put the relays for the e-fans, one of which seems to need to be replaced every spring, in a more accessible orientation. Because of getting this stuff better organized it wasn't that bad of a thing that I had to get back at that unplugged in sensor.

I got everything put back together, including getting the SC back in place and the belt installed again. Fired the truck up and the e-fans didn't come on, until the temp got to the point to trigger them. I checked this site and found that I needed to check the AUX fuse - it was good. Hmmmmm. Decided to let that slide for a while while I dealt with the oil leak.

The fitting that the oil line attached to at the engine appeared as if it could be turned in a bit farther, and it appeared as if at least some of the oil may have been coming from that joint. I cranked it in a bit farther - had to reroute the line, (disconnecting this end of the hose was a bit of a mess as the oil in the hose would leak out as you were disconnecting the line), and reattached it. Fired the engine up - still a leak. Hmmmmm. I began to suspect the hose's fitting and disconnected it at both ends. As I was pulling it up through the rats nest that still remained behind and under the SC, its fitting was pulled off, which seemed to confirm my suspicion that my problem was with that hose. It was now too late to get the hose replaced or fixed on a Sunday evening, so I turned my attention back to the OBDII port power issue. After looking at schematics in a hard-copy non-GM service manual, I looked at my soft-copy GM service manual and saw that the Cigarette Lighter fuse might be my problem. Sure enough it was bad and after replacing it was able to reprogram the computer. At this point I was hopeful that I could replace the oil hose early on Monday morning a get Ol' Yellar back on the road and not be too late for work.

I'll try to take some pics of the power brake boosters on the 2 AVs here pretty soon after I get home and post.

Didit · « **Reply #25 on:** June 17, 2011, 03:46:23 PM »

WOW what fun, nice write up though, hope the rest goes smoothly for ya

Didit

Main One · « **Reply #26 on:** June 17, 2011, 03:51:49 PM »

Quote from: Didit on June 17, 2011, 03:46:23 PM

WOW what fun, nice write up though, hope the rest goes smoothly for ya

Didit

The real shocker comes in Part IV. Never did get to work on Monday and was working pretty late into the day!

KY_BOB · « **Reply #27 on:** June 18, 2011, 08:03:14 PM »

I hate to interrupt this story but what did you do about the holes in the cast metal elbow where the nitrous and alky injectors were installed?

Main One · « **Reply #28 on:** June 19, 2011, 08:15:28 PM »

Quote from: KY_BOB on June 18, 2011, 08:03:14 PM

I hate to interrupt this story but what did you do about the holes in the cast metal elbow where the nitrous and alky injectors were installed?

Since I needed a 3/8 pipe tap, I bought a set of 3, including a 1/4 which fit nicely into that hole. I tapped it and installed a 1/4 pipe plug. Should post of pic of that too.

Main One · « **Reply #29 on:** June 19, 2011, 08:27:52 PM »

Here's an idea of how crowded things got around the SC. This pic is with the SC's intake removed. It snakes around from the rear, right in the pic, around the side, the bottom of this pic. You can see the 3 e-fan relays down below.

Main One · « **Reply #30 on:** June 19, 2011, 08:30:36 PM »

Here's the 02's power brake setup - note where it sits in relation to the fuse box.

Main One · « **Reply #31 on:** June 19, 2011, 08:31:56 PM »

And here's the 03's.

Main One · « **Reply #32 on:** June 19, 2011, 08:34:15 PM »

View from the top of the 02

Main One · « **Reply #33 on:** June 19, 2011, 08:35:36 PM »

the 03

Main One · « **Reply #34 on:** June 19, 2011, 08:36:47 PM »

Looking across the 02 engine bay

Main One · « **Reply #35 on:** June 19, 2011, 08:38:56 PM »

And across the 03's. Bob, in this pic you can see, although not all that well, the pipe plug coming out of the tube between the SC and throttle body.

MyBigToy · « **Reply #36 on:** June 19, 2011, 10:25:39 PM »

I believe the difference between the brakes for 02 to 03 is that the 03 has hydroboost.

Main One · « **Reply #37 on:** June 20, 2011, 07:38:52 AM »

Quote from: MyBigToy on June 19, 2011, 10:25:39 PM

I believe the difference between the brakes for 02 to 03 is that the 03 has hydroboost.

Makes sense

Alaska_AV · « **Reply #38 on:** June 20, 2011, 09:10:45 PM »

Quote from: MyBigToy on June 19, 2011, 10:25:39 PM

I believe the difference between the brakes for 02 to 03 is that the 03 has hydroboost.

NA hydro-boost don't need the big round, black vacuum chamber

Its a little thing about the size of fluid tank with power steering hoses on it

KY_BOB · « **Reply #39 on:** June 23, 2011, 06:40:01 AM »

Patiently waiting on updates

Fuel pump install? Boost gauge working? IAT relocated?

Main One · « **Reply #40 on:** June 23, 2011, 11:05:06 AM »

Sorry for taking so long with this. I'm working through several unpleasant issues right now which to my knowledge only one of you is currently fairly knowldegeable about and which is leaving me quite busy and distracted.

To answer your questions Bob, they are all no. I hope to change those to yes's before the end of the weekend.

Without further ado - Part IV - Day 4

So I got up thinking ok - swap the oil line to the SC and hopefully the oil leak will be fixed and I can drive this thing to work. I still had to figure out the issue with the OBDII port, and was hoping the fans would be working properly after getting what I was guessing was the ECT sensor plugged in. The Mrs graced me by running to NAPA to get the line replaced. So I get under the truck with the new line, hooked it up, and started the truck.

The fans did not come on - a good thing. I turned on the AC and the passenger fan ran at high speed, also a good thing. I looked under the truck - oil still leaking. Argh!!! Shut the truck down.

It's been over a week now so I don't recall exactly how many times I took that new line off and back on again but at some point I started to think that maybe my leak was "before" the line. The line was attached to an elbow fitting that screwed into a block that was inserted under a "cover" for lack of a better term that's purpose seems to be to allow access to pressurized oil flow. There's 2 3/8" or so holes under the cover that the cover is shaped to direct the flow from one to the other, or so I guess. There's a gasket between the oil pan and the cover. The block came with two gaskets - one for the oil pan side and one for the cover side. One gasket had 2 holes - the other one elongated hole. After numerous bad words were spoken I was inspecting the block, cover, gaskets, etc looking for something not right. After some inspection time, the engineer in me noted that the gasket with 2 holes in it did not have good gasket surface over the entire area that the cover would have in contact with oil. Then the lightbulb FINALLY went on that I needed to put the gasket with the 2 holes on the oil pan side - the other on the cover side. I reassembled everything and there was no leak.

I'm now getting pretty confident. The engine is running and warming up. The coolant temp gauge is climbing where it wasn't before - I'm hoping to hear the fans kick in at the programmed temp. To help it reach the temp, I climb in and start revving her up. Boy it sounded good! But what was that other sound??? Was it leaves blowing in the wind? Was it the excess coolant I had put in the overflow tank getting expelled? It did sound sort of like splashing water. I better get out and take a look.

So I get out of the truck, which was running and still on jackstands in the front, and look under the truck and see a RAPIDLY growing pool of dark liquid. OH SH!T!!! I shut the truck down as soon as I could. After going through about a roll of blue paper shop towels to soak up at least most of the fluid I get under the truck to try to figure out the source of the liquid. Hmmmmm. It wasn't under the engine, and the engine looked dry. Its under the transmission, and the passenger side of the tranny is dripping fluid. Oh look - there's a tranny cooler line which is for some reason no longer attached to the tranny. I guess somehow in removing and/or replacing the oil pan I had dislodged the tranny cooler line on the side of the tranny enough for it to disengage under pressure. For those who aren't familiar with attaching those lines, let me tell you it can be a real PITA for someone with big hands such as myself. After a couple of hours though I did have success. Had to put 5 quarts of tranny fluid back into the tranny.

During the day, the Mrs had made about 5 runs to the NAPA store getting things like oil fittings, and finally more of the clips that are supposed to secure the tranny lines into the tranny. During these trips I took advantage of the downtime by going over schematics for the truck - first in my hardcopy non-GM service manual, and then in my softcopy GM service manual. In the GM service manual I saw that for my truck the OBDII power is provided by cigarette lighter ID'ed fuse, not the AUX power fuse. I was able to determine that indeed the cigarette lighter fuse was blown, and after replacing it, my electrical problems were now all resolved. So finally, after getting the tranny line back in place and the fluid replaced, it was roadworthy once again! At this point it was about 6 Monday evening - needless to say I didn't make it to work that day.

oHIobellboy · « **Reply #41 on:** June 23, 2011, 11:40:40 AM »

You sure seem to be burning up a lot of vacation days on that toy of yours.

Main One · « **Reply #42 on:** June 23, 2011, 11:56:40 AM »

Quote from: oHIobellboy on June 23, 2011, 11:40:40 AM

You sure seem to be burning up a lot of vacation days on that toy of yours.

Well, the good news there is that I've still got 4 weeks to use or loose by the end of the year because they only allow us to carry over 6 weeks. I've got about 7 weeks on the books right now. Getting extra time off for traveling on weekends and late into the night last year also added to this year's total to use up although those days have already been burned.

The bad news is that I'm burning up more vacation days dealing with other sh!t.

KY_BOB · « **Reply #43 on:** June 23, 2011, 04:09:37 PM »

Quote from: Main One on June 23, 2011, 11:05:06 AM

For those who aren't familiar with attaching those lines, let me tell you it can be a real PITA for someone with big hands such as myself. After a couple of hours though I did have success. Had to put 5 quarts of tranny fluid back into the tranny.

I don't see how one of those lines could accidentally come loose. When I put the GM cooler on mine, I had to remove those lines and replace them with new lines. They were a PITA to get out and you are correct about reattaching them, PITA isn't a harsh enough statement. We did mine at a GTG at AVfarmers and had 4 or 5 people taking turns at attempting to reattach one of the lines and mine was on a lift. I don't remember who actually got it but it wasn't me.

KY_BOB · « **Reply #44 on:** June 23, 2011, 04:47:19 PM »

Quote from: Main One on June 23, 2011, 11:05:06 AM

In the GM service manual I saw that for my truck the OBDII power is provided by cigarette lighter ID'ed fuse, not the AUX power fuse. I was able to determine that indeed the cigarette lighter fuse was blown, and after replacing it, my electrical problems were now all resolved. So finally, after getting the tranny line back in place and the fluid replaced, it was roadworthy once again! At this point it was about 6 Monday evening - needless to say I didn't make it to work that day.

That one I might could have helped with. I've ran into it twice, once on Z66-Butch's AV and once on another truck that I tuned. The port was dead, both times they had a blown cigarette lighter fuse.

Main One · « **Reply #45 on:** June 24, 2011, 07:43:15 AM »

Quote from: KY_BOB on June 23, 2011, 04:09:37 PM

I don't see how one of those lines could accidentally come loose. When I put the GM cooler on mine, I had to remove those lines and replace them with new lines. They were a PITA to get out and you are correct about reattaching them, PITA isn't a harsh enough statement. We did mine at a GTG at AVfarmers and had 4 or 5 people taking turns at attempting to reattach one of the lines and mine was on a lift. I don't remember who actually got it but it wasn't me.

I remember when we put in my torque converter at your place. I struggled with those things then and then let you take a crack at them, and you were successful. If they weren't installed right now I probably don't have anyone to blame but myself as I doubt they've been touched since I put that tranny in back in November.

Of course in this case, it was extra aggrivating because I had to take out the tranny support in order to drop the tranny down some to give me a little extra room. Dealing with that took a little extra time. When doing a tranny remove and replace that obviously is part of the job.

KY_BOB · « **Reply #46 on:** June 24, 2011, 10:45:29 PM »

Quote from: Main One on June 24, 2011, 07:43:15 AM

I remember when we put in my torque converter at your place. I struggled with those things then and then let you take a crack at them, and you were successful. If they weren't installed right now I probably don't have anyone to blame but myself as I doubt they've been touched since I put that tranny in back in November.

Of course in this case, it was extra aggrivating because I had to take out the tranny support in order to drop the tranny down some to give me a little extra room. Dealing with that took a little extra time. When doing a tranny remove and replace that obviously is part of the job.

Forgot about that. I understand them engineering them for easy assembly with machines but they are always a PITA to do by hand. I think the body lift on my old one makes most things easier but it flexed the lines to the point that it was almost impossible to hook up. It's a good thing that your sons trans should be bullet proof for a long time.

Main One · « **Reply #47 on:** June 25, 2011, 03:13:28 PM »

Bob,

I should have taken a better look at how you had the aux fuel pump set up. Our trucks seem to have things in the same places around the fuel filter. You have a couple of holes on the plate that the pump is attached to - I'm guessing you had the plate attached to the frame somewhere via those holes. I didn't see any empty holes looking just now at your truck, and nothing is jumping out at me in regards to where you had bolted the thing up. I can see where the fuel line out of the filter is not seated into the clamp just in front of the filter, and unless you had added extra line, the pump has to be pretty close to the filter because there just isn't that much freedom with that hardline. If you can describe for me how this was laid out I'd appreciate it!

Main One · « **Reply #48 on:** June 25, 2011, 07:21:03 PM »

Did get the boost gauge working today. Boost ramps up to about 4 pounds at 6000 rpm. Only 2 pounds at 4000. Between this things cam and the way the SC doesn't hit until late with the underdrive crank pulley driving it, the engine is really wakes up at the upper rpm range.

I'm pulling the signal before the throttlebody. Here's a pic of how it's tapped into the intake tube between the SC and TB.

Main One · « **Reply #49 on:** June 25, 2011, 07:23:26 PM »

Little bit closer shot.

Bob, here you can see how I plugged the hole where you were feeding the nitrous wet shot.

Main One · « **Reply #50 on:** June 25, 2011, 07:28:03 PM »

Reason the boost gauge wasn't reading was because of this fitting, valve, whatever it is. It seemed blocked so I removed it. Hooked the line back up without and was getting movement on the boost needle. Last pic also shows the screen that I removed to get a better look inside.

KY_BOB · « **Reply #51 on:** June 26, 2011, 04:15:56 AM »

Quote from: Main One on June 25, 2011, 03:13:28 PM

Bob,

I should have taken a better look at how you had the aux fuel pump set up. Our trucks seem to have things in the same places around the fuel filter. You have a couple of holes on the plate that the pump is attached to - I'm guessing you had the plate attached to the frame somewhere via those holes. I didn't see any empty holes looking just now at your truck, and nothing is jumping out at me in regards to where you had bolted the thing up. I can see where the fuel line out of the filter is not seated into the clamp just in front of the filter, and unless you had added extra line, the pump has to be pretty close to the filter because there just isn't that much freedom with that hardline. If you can describe for me how this was laid out I'd appreciate it!

I took advise fron Flabouy and BBAV and drilled 2 3/8" holes in the skid plate under the transfer case and mounted it to it. I'm not sure if your Z66 has a plate in that area. Look at the skid plate on the '02, you'll see the holes.

KY_BOB · « **Reply #52 on:** June 26, 2011, 04:23:36 AM »

Quote from: Main One on June 25, 2011, 07:21:03 PM

Did get the boost gauge working today. Boost ramps up to about 4 pounds at 6000 rpm. Only 2 pounds at 4000. Between this things cam and the way the SC doesn't hit until late with the underdrive crank pulley driving it, the engine is really wakes up at the upper rpm range.

I'm pulling the signal before the throttlebody. Here's a pic of how it's tapped into the intake tube between the SC and TB.

The boost gauge needs to be tapped into a vacuum line post TB so it can show both vacuum and boost in the manifold.

Yea, that blower loves to be spun up. That's why I had my shift points so hi. @6200 with decent air, I got 11psi out of it. It may have been past the cam's ideal range but the extra boost made up for it.

MonstaMonsta · « **Reply #53 on:** June 26, 2011, 04:28:49 AM »

What an awesome thread

KY_BOB · « **Reply #54 on:** June 26, 2011, 04:32:38 AM »

I think you are going to want to put your stock balancer/pulley back on to up the boost but that will mean another belt.

Enkei · « **Reply #55 on:** June 26, 2011, 05:50:51 AM »

Can I drive it yet???

Main One · « **Reply #56 on:** June 26, 2011, 01:41:36 PM »

Quote from: KY_BOB on June 26, 2011, 04:32:38 AM

I think you are going to want to put your stock balancer/pulley back on to up the boost but that will mean another belt.

I'm thinking of waiting until I get the other transmission back into it. It will be very tempting though.....

MyBigToy · « **Reply #57 on:** June 26, 2011, 01:53:24 PM »

Quote from: KY_BOB on June 26, 2011, 04:32:38 AM

I think you are going to want to put your stock balancer/pulley back on to up the boost but that will mean another belt.

Can you put a smaller pulley on the Vortec to make it spin faster? Just a thought.....

Main One · « **Reply #58 on:** June 26, 2011, 02:35:15 PM »

Quote from: KY_BOB on June 26, 2011, 04:15:56 AM

I took advise fron Flabouy and BBAV and drilled 2 3/8" holes in the skid plate under the transfer case and mounted it to it. I'm not sure if your Z66 has a plate in that area. Look at the skid plate on the '02, you'll see the holes.

Got it. That looks like a very convenient place - I should have looked harder.

Looks like I could bolt on the transfercase skid plate without a transfercase. Anyone got a transfercase skid plate they'd like to part with?

Main One · « **Reply #59 on:** June 26, 2011, 02:37:09 PM »

Quote from: MyBigToy on June 26, 2011, 01:53:24 PM

Can you put a smaller pulley on the Vortec to make it spin faster? Just a thought.....

That is an idea, although I am running the smaller of 2 pulleys that Bob had with it now.

Main One · « **Reply #60 on:** June 26, 2011, 02:38:15 PM »

So Bob, what is that thing that I posted the pics of in reply 50?

KY_BOB · « **Reply #61 on:** June 26, 2011, 09:19:04 PM »

Quote from: MyBigToy on June 26, 2011, 01:53:24 PM

Can you put a smaller pulley on the Vortec to make it spin faster? Just a thought.....

He's running a pretty small pulley right now 3.12". They do make smaller but slippage becomes an issue from what I have read. Still it might be worth a try. There is a 2.87" (think I;m right on the size) for that blower.

KY_BOB · « **Reply #62 on:** June 26, 2011, 09:35:17 PM »

Quote from: Main One on June 26, 2011, 02:38:15 PM

So Bob, what is that thing that I posted the pics of in reply 50?

You just need a "T" connector into a vacuum hose off the intake to tell you what the vacuum or boost is in the manifold. I cut the hose going to the FMU but you aren't using it and probably won't need to with those injectors. There are other hoses that feed from the manifold. I know that the capillary line that goes to the gauge has to have a compression fitting but all you need is a 3-way connector with a compression fitting for the tube and 2 nipples for a vacuum hose. There should be one in the parts box that came off of my truck. It's probably still attached to the lines on the FMU.

You need to know what's in the intake, boost or vacuum, not just what the blower is putting out. There isn't enough boost pressure to blow it apart. I have no clue how much boost I put out between the blower and the TB. I do know if I went from WOT to zero throttle quickly, I would hear a big "wooosh" when the blow off valve dumped the excess pressure.

KY_BOB · « **Reply #63 on:** June 26, 2011, 09:43:26 PM »

BTW: you have my #, call me on any of this stuff anytime. I don't proclaim to be an expert but I'll help as much as possible.

Main One · « **Reply #64 on:** June 29, 2011, 09:50:55 AM »

Quote from: KY_BOB on June 26, 2011, 09:35:17 PM

You just need a "T" connector into a vacuum hose off the intake to tell you what the vacuum or boost is in the manifold. I cut the hose going to the FMU but you aren't using it and probably won't need to with those injectors. There are other hoses that feed from the manifold. I know that the capillary line that goes to the gauge has to have a compression fitting but all you need is a 3-way connector with a compression fitting for the tube and 2 nipples for a vacuum hose. There should be one in the parts box that came off of my truck. It's probably still attached to the lines on the FMU.

You need to know what's in the intake, boost or vacuum, not just what the blower is putting out. There isn't enough boost pressure to blow it apart. I have no clue how much boost I put out between the blower and the TB. I do know if I went from WOT to zero throttle quickly, I would hear a big "wooosh" when the blow off valve dumped the excess pressure.

I wasn't worried about the pressure blowing it apart, and am currently not that curious about what is in the manifold. Can pretty much "see" the vaccum by what the fuel pressure is doing at low-medium loads, and assume pretty much minimal pressure loss from tube to manifold at WOT.

I am curious though as to what the pressure is in the tube to know how much work, and hence the power (fuel) that the SC was taking, when not being asked to provide extra power.

Am still curious as to what is in the pics in post #50.

KY_BOB · « **Reply #65 on:** June 29, 2011, 11:31:05 AM »

Quote from: Main One on June 26, 2011, 02:38:15 PM

So Bob, what is that thing that I posted the pics of in reply 50?

If it came from the place that you have your boost capillary tube hooked to, it was installed by the guy that built the meth injection. I would assume that it's just a screen filter to prevent any trash from getting injected into the engine.

If it was totally stopped up, I'm now wondering if that was the only problem with the meth injection system. You may have a perfectly working system minus a filter...

Main One · « **Reply #66 on:** June 29, 2011, 12:28:40 PM »

Quote from: KY_BOB on June 29, 2011, 11:31:05 AM

If it came from the place that you have your boost capillary tube hooked to, it was installed by the guy that built the meth injection. I would assume that it's just a screen filter to prevent any trash from getting injected into the engine.

If it was totally stopped up, I'm now wondering if that was the only problem with the meth injection system. You may have a perfectly working system minus a filter...

Yes, that's where it came from.

The center "stem" that's visible in one of the pics moved back and forth easily. Because of that I'm thinking it is a check valve sort of thing. Would allow the meth to flow out, but not allow pressure to push it back. I tried to blow through it both ways without success - it may have been the reason your meth system wasn't working.

KY_BOB · « **Reply #67 on:** June 29, 2011, 07:30:06 PM »

Quote from: Main One on June 29, 2011, 12:28:40 PM

Yes, that's where it came from.

The center "stem" that's visible in one of the pics moved back and forth easily. Because of that I'm thinking it is a check valve sort of thing. Would allow the meth to flow out, but not allow pressure to push it back. I tried to blow through it both ways without success - it may have been the reason your meth system wasn't working.

That makes perfect since. If there wasn't a check valve in the system, it would siphon when it was under vacuum. You don't want alky under vacuum, only on boost.

Main One · « **Reply #68 on:** July 03, 2011, 05:20:18 PM »

Having trouble with the auxilliary fuel pump. First the threaded stud for the 12v hookup broke off trying to unscrew the nuts which were still holding the ring connector from when it was on Bob's truck. Was able to solder the power feed line directly to what was left and apparantly without shorting to the body, which is no small feat considering how little I had to work with. The wire seems very secure to the stub of a stud, but it doesn't seem like the pump is contributing anything. I've confirmed that I've got a good ground, and power on the line at the relay end. Does the pump vibrate or make any noise? I'm not hearing or feeling any noise or vibration coming from it. I ran the truck without supply power to it at first (connected the line with the inline fuse to something I thought was energized but it wasn't) so I know it isn't hurting fuel flow too much, but it doesn't seem to be helping or hurting too much now.

KY_BOB · « **Reply #69 on:** July 08, 2011, 12:56:18 PM »

Sorry for the slow reply.

Yuck, that does sound like a PITA of a soldering job. I really couldn't ever hear the pump from inside the truck. Of course it was wired to only run when the main fuel pump was running. We I would first turn the key to the on position, I could hear the pumps run for a second but it wasn't noticeably louder than just the main pump. I've heard some add on fuel pumps that were loud. I have even laid on the ground and, put my hand on the pump, and had someone else turn the key to "on" and I could feel it vibrate in my hand.

When I had the trans rebuilt, they zip tied it out of the way and forgot to bolt it back to the skid plate. The first time that I got it under quite a bit of boost, my fuel pressure started dropping, which it never had done before. The first thing that I checked was that pump and saw that it wasn't bolted up (no ground). The bolts were still in the bracket, so I cut the zip tie, bolted it back to the skid plate, and my fuel pressure never dropped again.

Main One · « **Reply #70 on:** July 08, 2011, 01:02:56 PM »

I've got a replacement Vortech pump on order from Summit. Supposed to ship on the 18th.

Main One · « **Reply #71 on:** July 17, 2011, 08:41:36 PM »

Well, the pump got here before Summit said it would ship, and it is installed before Summit said it would ship!

Fuel Pressure guage is no longer showing the fuel pressure dropping at WOT. It's now showing it at 58-59 psi, before was only seeing about 56 before it starting dropping. The indications from the narrowband sensors via HPTuners scanner shows them staying above 900 mV all the way to WOT shift point, and the 42 pound injector max duty cycle of 83% on a pretty hot day. Plenty of fueling, for now. Only saw a max of about 3 pounds of boost.

I also changed the fuel filter while I was doing the pump - that may have contributed to my problem, but I don't think the other pump was operating.

KY_BOB · « **Reply #72 on:** July 18, 2011, 11:48:04 AM »

I know it's a pain but your going to have to put that stock crank pully back on to get some serious boost. At least you already have the belt to fit it (my old one)

Main One · « **Reply #73 on:** July 18, 2011, 12:35:08 PM »

Quote from: KY_BOB on July 18, 2011, 11:48:04 AM

I know it's a pain but your going to have to put that stock crank pully back on to get some serious boost. At least you already have the belt to fit it (my old one)

I'm going to try to resist doing that until after I get my rebuilt rebuilt transmission back in it.

MyBigToy · « **Reply #74 on:** July 18, 2011, 02:24:08 PM »

Quote from: Main One on July 18, 2011, 12:35:08 PM

I'm going to try to resist doing that until after I get my rebuilt rebuilt transmission back in it.

Can you even tell there's boost at 3 psi?

I've been tweaking on my tune for the past couple of weeks and have it running pretty well now.

Main One · « **Reply #75 on:** July 19, 2011, 07:15:02 AM »

Quote from: MyBigToy on July 18, 2011, 02:24:08 PM

Can you even tell there's boost at 3 psi?

Yeah, I believe I can tell. Will be taking the G-tech out sometime this week and see what it says, although I don't think I have any runs in the past done in such hot ambient conditions as we are supposed to be seeing for a while.

The aux pump, together with the e-fans, is really showing it is there on my voltmeter. I'm going to see if I'm running an underdrive pulley on the alternator and if so put the stock one back on.