Topic: DRL on low

[HenryJ]

Like every other GM truck on the road, I have fought the battle of the burned DRL sockets. Lower candle power bulbs and dielectric silicone help the situation, but I don't think they are the whole answer. My DRL bulbs have been replaced with amber. I have added a diode to have them on all the time and I have also added a relay so that the wig-wag with the turn signals. I have noticed that since they use the high side element , the bulbs are cooking the amber, and I suspect the socket as well. I am sure that being on night and day has not helped the lifespan of the amber coating, or the socket.
Today I took a step to reduce the intensity. I replaced the inner socket with one from a turn signal lamp. This has both terminals so that the low power element of the bulb can be used.
The center pin is the low element for the bulb. This is blanked off in the outer part of the stock DRL socket. Pretty simple to drill it out and up size the inner channel for the terminal. Once that was done , I moved the blue wire to the center position.
The brown inner socket donated from a turn signal socket needed a channel trimmed/ground into it to match the outer socket for the DRL. An abrasive cut off wheel on the grinder made quick work of that.
snap it all together and now my DRL use the low power element of the 3157A amber bulb. That should help the yellow coating of the bulb last longer and keep the socket from burning too.

Mine are set up to be on all the time and wig wag with the turn signals. This makes them a better match to the park lamps. Basically, I just turned them into an extended park light and turn signal.

I had been planning to do this for quite a long time. Finally took the time to "git'r dun".

The "rose color glasses" are still on , but so far I like it!

[oHIobellboy]

 



he he...I've thought about how to do that on Twiggy's WBH because the ambers are so bright but I've never got around to it. The inner socket did the trick with just a little trimming?  I've change enough of those sockets because they burn out  that I can just about do it with my eye's closed.

[HenryJ]

...I've thought about how to do that on Twiggy's WBH because the ambers are so bright but I've never got around to it. The inner socket did the trick with just a little trimming?

Yes. Almost plug-n-play. Easily reversible.
This is the bottom side showing all three spades:



This is the modified socket with the terminal in place:



Here is a picture of the stock insert on the left and the groove that I cut into the replacement:



You can see that this groove that I cut lines up with the socket rail:



Snap down and reassemble. It took less than an hour.



Now both lights are on using the same element and the lights are equal.

[R3D DR4G0N]

Yes. Almost plug-n-play. Easily reversible.
This is the bottom side showing all three spades:



This is the modified socket with the terminal in place:



Here is a picture of the stock insert on the left and the groove that I cut into the replacement:



You can see that this groove that I cut lines up with the socket rail:



Snap down and reassemble. It took less than an hour.



Now both lights are on using the same element and the lights are equal.

heres my thing: my ambers were installed over a month ago.  everything looks and works fine.  when i go to put in my new bulbs, i will check the drl socket for burning, but for right now, like i said everythings fine.  when idling, the amber drl looks a little awkward because its so bright vs the park light, but when the turn signal comes on, they match right up (reverse what you did).  now what happens when you put on YOUR turn signal, suddenly your signal is brighter than the drl.  im just having a hard time trying to see the big picture in this...thank you!

Jon

[HenryJ]

You are right that when they flash the turn uses the bright element. I now have the option to do the same for the DRL if I wish. It would require running one wire. I really don't think that the difference will be as noticeable while it is flashing as they were when they were on all the time.
Personally I think the reduced intensity DRL will have more advantages. No more burning sockets, no more amber turning to clear as it burns off the bulb. An even look to the vehicle on the road. No questions about the DRL being on with the fogs and low beams. No more than four headlamps are legal, at least for Oregon. Mine are now park/turn signals. 

[R3D DR4G0N]

You are right that when they flash the turn uses the bright element. I now have the option to do the same for the DRL if I wish. It would require running one wire. I really don't think that the difference will be as noticeable while it is flashing as they were when they were on all the time.
Personally I think the reduced intensity DRL will have more advantages. No more burning sockets, no more amber turning to clear as it burns off the bulb. An even look to the vehicle on the road. No questions about the DRL being on with the fogs and low beams. No more than four headlamps are legal, at least for Oregon. Mine are now park/turn signals. 

I see, and also you said you have the wigwag setup yes?  that prolly looks rele cool actually :P  I only said what i said because I do not have the problem in which the sockets are burning, nor is the amber covering burning off.  thank you!

Jon

[tdybr27]

Hey OBB, I wonder if this can be done on mine at Bratfest this year?  My passenger side DRL keeps blowing.

[HenryJ]

Hey OBB, I wonder if this can be done on mine at Bratfest this year?  My passenger side DRL keeps blowing.

It should be an easy parking lot mod.
Tools:
11/64" drill bit
17/64" drill bit
Cordless drill
Pick
Small standard screw driver
Small file , Dremel or cut off wheel grinder
Pen knife or equivalent.


Use the small screw driver and pick to remove the stock insert. Compare it to the replacement and grind/cut/trim the alignment slot to match.

The knife is used to cut the plastic rib inside the blanked hole for the center terminal prior to cleaning it out with a 17/64" drill bit. Once that is done use the 11/64" drill to open up the channel in the middle for the terminal. With those tasks complete the blue wire and terminal will slide into place.

Now all the pieces are assembled and ready to go. With a little practice , I bet both sides can be done in under 30 minutes.

[MyBigToy]

Hey OBB, I wonder if this can be done on mine at Bratfest this year?  My passenger side DRL keeps blowing.

   The only problem I see with that question is that Ridgelines don't qualify. 

[R3D DR4G0N]

  The only problem I see with that question is that Ridgelines don't qualify. 

                            

Jon